After ANY rebuild with new rings, do NOT use detergent oil.
I use plain old non-detergent oil. 20W or 30W is fine.
Prime the oil pump, fire up the engine, check for leaks
and go for a short (10 minute) drive around the block
using only partial throttle (take it easy). Pull back
in the drive way, shut the engine down (double check for
leaks), and DRAIN the oil & toss the filter.
Refill with 20W or 30W and drive it 500 to 1000 miles.
Then change to a good multigrade (10W-40 or 20W-50, or
your favorite syntethic).
Chrome rings are a pain to get seated correctly. Tell the
machine shop if you are planing on using them, as they will
use a different hone pattern.
On some engines, I have seen owners run a good detergent
at rebuild, only to find the rings never seated in. Yes,
the rings and bores provide their own 'matching' on our
older engines.
Tidbits: Porsche will 'dyno' their new engines. Right
from the shop they will run full throttle at 8,000
rpm for 10 minutes! No breakin period for them! Some
other OEM's have also gone to a "fuel less" dyno of
running the engine from an electric motor to provide
break-in (they do not have to mess with the gasoline).
Nissan has the 'micro-finish' on the cranks... no breakin
on the modern engines, other than seating rings.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
Austin, TX.
P.S. Changed the oil in the Toyota Landcruiser yesterday...
and used the 7 quart oil pan under a 8 quart engine! Darn,
I thought the only 8 quart engine was a Solex U20!
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