Hello,
I got my h-4's from where else.... JC WHItless!!! Man I love that
place... do they have a frequent buyer program??
They have even more higher ppowered stuff but I thought 80/100W with
100W driving light should be enough.
Huh.. I had not look to closely at the wiring diagram have to ground
the neg side to make them work..
I have bought sockets for the H-4's at kragen and I am planning on
buying two relays to switch the grounds and just use the existing switch to
turn on the relays. This way I can keep the stock head light wiring in case
I ever want to switch back. And powering the relays right from the batt will
keep the higher currents out of the stock electrical system alltoghether.
Should increase the life of everything concerned.
Daniel 69 2000
> Daniel,
> Where'd you get the hi-wattage lights? I love my Hellas (which are
> completely full of Halogen as opposed to most bulb replacement units), but
> higher wattage is a consideration for country driving.
>
> Remember, roadsters (and 510s) have backwards logic headlight circuits.
> Ground is switched to turn them on, the stock relay only controls hi-lo
> beam. Thats one reason why the headlight switches on roadsters tend to go
> bad. They take a good amount of current and are not sealed (to minimize
> corrosion) Thomas Walter silver solders his headlight switch
> internals...highly recomended.
>
> The headlights ALWAYS have +12v on them, each element is grounded to make
> them turn on.
>
> Of course you don't have to butcher your harness to make them positive
> switched, you can use one relay for grounding the low beams (on both sides)
> and another for grounding the high beams, fed directly off the existing
> relay switching, and connected near the lights themselves. Otherwise,
> you'll want to beef up your harness wiring. You may want to direct wire
> (with a fuse somewhere) the +12volt lead to all of them.
>
> In order to use my stock fusebox for higher current draws, I wired it for
> more current supply (with a circuit breaker to minimize the chance of
> burning up the harness and fusebox) Then any additional circuits can be
> direct tapped from the stock fusebox (mine's the 8 fuse late model) with
> outboard fuses located next to it in the glovebox.
>
> Then there's the underpowered alternator issue (stock 30 amp alternator
> really maxes out at about 24 amps in real world tests), but I think you
> went with a hi-current alty?
>
> There's still a 30 amp total limit on the ammeter that you need to be
> careful with or change. I won't go into that now in order to keep this
> message from being any longer.
>
> The big consideration is NOT to add any extra current draw to the roadster
> harness without working out where it's going to come from...from end to end.
>
> Thorn Filippelli
> Santa Rosa, California
> '70 2000 Solex
> #13575
>
> > In my opinon the headlight on my car sre not bright enough. I
> >bought a pair of 80/100W halogen H4 lights that should cure this.. I also
> >bought 100 watt H3 bulbs for the driving lights....
> > I know that the stock harness/relay cannot handle this kind of
>power.
> >I am looking for suggestions on how to wire up a high powered relay. Is
> >the stock unit a 'double ' relay. One circuit for high beams and one for
>low?
> >Would I need to install two relays to replace it?? The plugs that the
> >lights plug into on the car.. Is this a standard piece that I can buy?? I
> >would like to not have to cut up the stock harness enough.. I was hoping
> >that I could jsut tap into the two orignal low beam/ high beam wires to
> >turn on the relays and wire up my own sockets and tuck the originals out
> >of the way.
> >
>
>
|