Chris writes:
> On Saturday I'm picking up a '66 1600 G Prod. race car.
> The engine ran great the last time it was started, but that
> was probably five years ago...
Yes Chris, as you already mentioned you should crank up oil
pressure first. Change the present oil first, so you're pumping
clean stuff, and remember the pump spins COUNTER clockwise.
You may want to 'fog' the cylinders before turning it. It's been reported
that you can buy aerosol engine fogger at a marine shop. You could
probably get away with a good shot of wd40 aimed to hit the walls and
edge of the pistons (get down to the rings), but others may disagree (and
they may be right to do so - I really don't know!). AFTER fogging the
cylinders AND getting oil pressure, then I'd try turning the engine by
hand.
As far as yanking the head, my personal choice is if it ain't broke don't
push your luck... if you plan on tearing it down and refurbing it then go
ahead, but don't go looking for trouble. The springs are probably weak
from having sat compressed. But unless you're going to really push
this motor, just see how things are (and if you ARE going to push it,
you're going to go thru the whole thing anyway).
Flush those fuel lines! Check for rust and sediment, drain the tank and
blow out the lines, check the fuel bowls for crud in the bottom. Make
sure the hoses to the carb nozzles are in good shape, and replace all the
fuel rubber lines and the filter.
And of course bleed out the hydraulics, and expect to have some
problems from it sitting so long. Word of warning: oftentimes the
process of bleeding the system will result in leaks, because you
end up moving the pistons beyond their 'normal' travel and the seals
get damaged from running into the junk built up at the edge of their
travel...
-- John
John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
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