Hi Josh and all
One meaning of "imagining" is perceiving something fictional and I agree
with that.
A ported U20 with the mods described and some valve machining can go to
170bhp and more, I have one with similar mods that has been dynoed at a
little over 170 but the compression is actually lower than std (9.2 to 1)
(my Silver car).
The mods on my race U20 are a little more exotic and mine pulls 228bhp (so
says the dyno). (normally aspirated with 11.8 to 1 compression). (My Blue
and white race car on Gordon's site).
I agree on the parts bit. I have used modified L series titanium valve
retainers on the U20.
The design efficiency of the U20 is far greater, take the Heads side by
side and look at the huge ports on the U20 compared with the L series.
Regards,
Howard
-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua Milton [SMTP:jt_milton@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 2 November 1999 9:22
To: Howard Fletcher; 'Matt Peterson'; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Found a L20b
It seems I will have to continue as devils advocate
for swaps.
>From what I gather there isnt much more that you can
do to a U20 beyond going solexs, header and a cam.
Which is great power! But thats only putting out
around 150hp, after some porting I couldnt imagine it
going up much more from there.
An L20b can get 170hp with the same efforts. I have
not made the swap nor have I driven any Roadsters with
the swap but I can tell you the L20b in a 510 screams
and pulls hard! Its also about the easiest engine on
the planet to get parts for (aftermarket or stock).
I would imagine Ronnie Day could tell you more about
the pluses and minuses of the L.
have fun,
joshua milton
69 1600
encino, ca
--- Howard Fletcher <hgf@netro.com.au> wrote:
> Hi Matt and all
>
> By reputation look for mediocre performance and less
> potential than a U20 solex .
>
> Has anyone been really satisfied with such a swap?
> and was it worth the time and effort?
>
> So many of these projects start and go nowhere, due
> to all sorts of fitting problems.
>
> A U20 or h20 Crank mod (relatively easy) on a 1600
> or a swap for an SR20 (with all the effort) would
> make some sense.
> or even an outright H20 swap (which would be easy).
>
> Regards,
>
> Howard
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Peterson [SMTP:pete_303@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, 30 October 1999 12:48
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: Found a L20b
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> As you might remember from previous postings I am
> looking for a L20b engine
> for a swap. Well I found one today and it was only
> 15 miles away! I went
> to a local salvage yard today not expecting to find
> anything but when I
> asked the guy if he had any Datsuns he said that he
> had a bunch out back.
> They were way in the back of the place. There were
> 210s, 510s, along with a
> bunch of other _10s. I don't remember all of the
> models as all those cars
> are before my time. It was the first time I saw
> many of those models first
> hand (very cool). He also had a 240Z and a 280Z.
> As I was walking out he asked me if I found what I
> was looking for. I said
> that I didn't and asked if he had any Nissan trucks
> thinking I might find a
> KA24. It turns out that he has a 77? Datsun truck
> with a L20b engine. Just
> what I was looking for! It doesn't have a starter
> so I couldn't see how
> well it ran but he says that it runs well and that
> the transmision (4spd) is
> solid.
> Now that I'm all excited I would like to ask.
> 1. Are there any key things I should look for that
> would tell me anything
> about the shape of the engine?
> 2. Are there any particular sounds to listen for?
> I just don't want to buy the engine and have it crap
> out on me in a short
> while.
> Thanks everyone
>
> Matt Peterson
> 68 1600
> Zimmerman, MN
>
> P.S. He wants $250 for the engine and trans which
> seems like a good price
> to me if it's all he says it is.
>
>
=====
|