I don't know who your Rebuilder is, but mine just rebuilt my 79 ford Mustang
302, 5L, for $600.00 That is with a new crank, new cam, new lifters, metal
timing chain and gears, high volume oil pump, redo the heads(two) Assemble
the whole engine(as well as disassemble) All I had to do was R+R the engine
and trans. Oh he also changed my syncros in my transmission. Good Hunting.
P.S. It runs great.
-----Original Message-----
From: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>
To: a roadster list <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Sigh, what to do
>Kyle,
> Well, how ambitious are you, and how fast do you want to go? <grin>
>It's all personal preference. I really liked Clete Roberts' rotaty
>roadster for power- a few years ago, I shunned it as "impure" but as I
>age, I seem to want to go faster, and care less and less about
>originality on beat-up non-original cars...
> The stinker, tho, is that to do a swap, you need a known-good engine-
>it would really stink to go thru the hassle and expense of a swap, only
>to find that you now need an engine rebuild! If your 2L only rattles a
>bit on hot-start, you could probably shim the tensioner a bit, fix the
>worst bits of your tranny, and be out only a few hundred bucks, and a
>few weeks. But if you're gonna do a complete rebuild of both, boring
>the block, turning the crank, etc, you're probably looking at at least
>$2000, including a few (possibly expensive) tranny parts.
> So how fast do you wnat to go? I've got a friend with an aluminum
>Buick v8 for sale, and one with an Olds 330?!?
>Toby
>
>Kyle Hagemann wrote:
>>
>> Hi listers
>
>> I know this thread has been done to death, but I'm really at a loss.
>> The main thing that keeps me from just refreshing the U20 and 5spd is
>> the cost. If it'd cost me say, $1000 to do that vs. 1500 for an
>> SR20DE with 5spd, well, heck, the extra $500 would be well spent
>> (especially since there's always a market for those parts...) My car
>> is not original, so that's not a concern. I'm looking for reliable
>> performance with good fuel economy at a reasonable price.... for the
>> sake of argument, assume I can weld and fabricate what parts needed,
>> but don't really want to take the car too far apart (i.e., body off -
>> cuz once that happens, I know I couldn't stop;-)
>>
>> Thanks for any advice...
>>
>> ____ Kyle Hagemann, Born-Again Grease Monkey From Beyond
>> _.;(____\____ 72 240Z, L28, 5spd, poly, etc. - The Z-Beast
>> | _ | | _'@`, 69 2000, U20, three speed - El Krunchariffic
>> `-(#)------(#)-< 84 Maxima, 280ZX in sedan disguise - Mr. Max
>> http://www.sonic.net/~kyle 240Z tech info, Win95/8 theme, etc.
>>
>> "Blessed are the Car Guys."
>
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