If I was you Eric, I would either:
A) buy it dirt cheap as a 2L donor
B) Walk away from it and get Mike Kerr or Mike Young to pick you a
California body. If you start with something solid,
you will save so much avoiding (usually very crude) rust repairs, it will
balance out.
AND you will have a solid body, not one full of patch panels, fiberglass
and bondo.
C) Export it to Alan Bent, he likes junk....(KIDDING Alan, just poking fun...
He's never going to send me and FJ20 if I keep this up....)
Jim Tyler
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From: Eric R. Wittinger[SMTP:wittiner@ee.pdx.edu]
Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 6:46 AM
To: Datsun Roadster
Subject: Metal work question/
Hi all, a quick question to those that have had some experience int metal
working on cars..
I looked at a 69 2l last night the car was great except for the rocker
pannels, the body part that frames teh bottom of the door. The problem:
is that the lower half of the driver side one is gone, that is you can
open the door and see on problems but get on your hands and knees and hey
look a large hole for my arm :-) The passanger side is not as bad just
places to stick your hand in... The rest of the car is rust free, and in
great shape? I have pics getting devloped and will put them on next
monday,
My concerns are cost of getting this fixed, then painting. I have not
done any metal work before, some weldng n the exaughst, but it doesn't
count.
It was also my first time to drive a 2L, nice power over a 1600.
Eric
66 1600 daily driver
67.5 1600 daily driver (for sale)
69 2L thrown timing chain (getting a 1600 motor temp )
67.5 1600 race car in progress
| Eric R Wittinger |
| Pacific Northwest National Laboratory |
| NSD Radiological and Chemical Sciences Group |
| Web page www.ee.pdx.edu/~wittiner |
| Email wittiner@EE.pdx.edu |
| Email (work) Eric.Wittinger@pnl.gov |
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