It's not too bad, but give yourself a few 4- hour sessions, at least a
few days apart.
1: get the bow fixed. You'll go crazy if you don't. I reinforced and
rewelded my own, with pretty good luck. Your mileage may vary...
2: drill holes in the 2 vertical supports (the bars that come down from
the top and attach right behind the seats) approx. 1" up from the
originals. This is critical- the Whitney top WON'T fit if you don't.
3: Put the rear bar into the top, and hook it into place on the car.
Make sure you get the top centered over the frame. Having your windows
up helps at this point, altho they do get in the way.
4: Stretch the beejesus out of the top. I did this with really strong
cloth tape (gaff tape) pulling the top down the windshield, working my
way back and forth, tightening tape as I went.
5: Let it sit. The warmer, the better. A few days, at the least.
6: come back to it, and make sure you're pretty happy with the fit.
Repeat 4 and 5 if needed. I got almost all of the wrinkles out of it,
but again your mileage may vary...
7: When you're sure you're happy, mark the holes for twisties and
posties, keeping in mind that you want them to be tight, but not so
tight that they'll pop apart. Again, I tensioned the top down the body
with tape- not as aggressively as the front, but enough to get almost
all of the wrinkles out.
8: Mount the T&P hardware, and fasten the top to the car with them.
9: Repeat 4 & 5 for good measure. Make sure the bow is latched firmly
to the windshield.
10: Put a good, sticky, flexible tape along the top to mark where it
meets the leading edge of the bow. Or use a wax pencil- but that may
stain. Mark a centerline on both the bow and the top.
11: release all tension on the top, unlatch the bow, and fold it up
about a foot. Realign your mark with the edge of the bow. Make sure
you're centered.
12: Attach the top to the bow, working from the center to the edges.
It's permanant now, so be SURE you're right. I found the stock holding
strips to be a real pain, so I cut some out of 1/8" bar stock. I made
'em the same shape as the front bow, which made my life a LOT
easier....
13: (figures we would end on 13, eh?) wrestle the top up and closed.
Now you can trim the excess material, and install those cool side
cables. Easy, huh?
Next time I'm gonna spend real money for a real top. In the meantime,
the Whitney top does keep me pretty dry. Mostly. It does leak a bit
around the windows in a driving rain, tho...<grin>
Toby
NATHAN J RUFFCORN wrote:
>
> Well , I'm disheartened after reading the thread on all the problems with
> JC Whitney tops. This car has been a LONG project with the top being
> purchased 4+ years ago. As you who have bought the top can probably attest,
> the instructions are LESS than helpful. I have never installed a top
> before, so does ANYONE have any insight in putting one on with minimal
> headache. Also when the car was purchased it came minus alot of the top
> hardware including a cracked and fatigued front bow. I want to use the
> "twisties" on the leading edge (right behind the doors) but plan on using
> snaps the rest of the way around. Is this going to present any problems?
>
> Thanks,
> Nathan
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