Rich,
<cool story deleted>
> A little research at my local "Bill's Auto Parts" found that the owner
>was VERY familiar with the engines, as he was a primary builder of them
for
>the inboard Boat racing class called N225. the 225 being the max
>displacement allowed. In this class the ran Dodge 225 slant 6's Ford
221
>V-8's, and the Buick/Olds 215's. More investigation found that the 215
were
>the way to go in the boats, as they won almost every race, and were very
>reliable, according to the boat owners and drivers. Got a good list of
>parts from them, and found that they set their rev limitters at 9,000
RPM
>during the preliminary heats, and would turn them up to 9,500 for the
Final
>heat. They did this all season long without breaking them. I WAS
>CONVINCED.
There's an interview with a retired boat racer in one of the MGBV8
newsletters that sounds similar. They built them to rev, not necessarily
make horsepower since the prop wasn't always in the water. Wild thing
was they used prepared but stock rods (which are forged, BTW) and
cranks.
>Probably will sell this block, and acquire a later stronger Rover block
The only block failures I've heard of have been due to overboring and
sleeving. Beyond that Chris Crane claims the main caps can walk due
to loose fit bolts. ARP main studs are the answer. If you're going all
out, the late Rover blocks are cross bolted.
>Would prefer EFI, and electronic ignition, if the EFI can support 9,000
>RPM's
EFI will take work. Check on the DIY_EFI list. I'd first put the motor
together using a 4 bbl and single plane race intake (Huffaker/, Harcourt/,
Wilpower, or Offy 360). Another option would be the Offy 2 x 2 bbl
intake that (still available through D&D).
If you are wanting to run this on the street, an independent runner
(Weber or EFI) manifold is worth a look. Much easier to make idle
and operate at lower rpms when the overlap reversion is isolated
by the independent runners.
As far as ignition, go with a Mallory Unilte and a Hyfire IV or MSD.
Vizard claims the Hyfire is absolutely rock solid past 9000 rpm.
>Billet crank, stock stroke of 2.8" (probably....since I really like HIGH
>RPM's) Forged, Billet or Aluminum Rods (longer than stock)
Plenty of room for long rods if you move the pin up the piston.
Beware aluminum rods have a very short fatigue lifespan.
Better to get some light steel rods. Of course titanium is nice if
you're made of $$$.
>Roller Cam bearings
>Roller Cam and lifters
>Roller Rockers
>Custom Forged Pistons (J&E or Johns...probably 10.5 to 11.0 cr.)
>Aluminum Flywheel
>roller cam chain, or possibly gear drive set
>Main bearing Stud kits, and any other block improvements
Might want to try Total Alloy Enterprises. He seems to
have a lot of the exotic parts in his flyer. I'd also look
into sourcing the roller rockers and the like directly
from Australia. The exchange rate is favorable.
>HP output is planned in the 390 to 425 range. Redline of 9,500 RPM
>However, will set rev limitter to no more than probably 8,500 RPM
I would think you'd want to use a set of heavily ported Buick 300
heads with larger valves as well. Might want to contact Ron
Hopwood or Woody Cooper.
Did the boat racer mention oiling system modifications?
Might want to duplicate the Buick V6 race mods.
Welcome Aboard,
Dan Jones
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