Doesn't matter. If the crack is structural and will travel or is
unstable it would need to be welded, which can be done with special rod and
preheating, but otherwise it just needs to be sealed, which brazing or Devcon
accomplishes. I would pressure test it (bearing in mind that it perhaps isn't
a pressurized system - is it thermo-siphon?) and if it isn't leaking, sand
the brazing smooth and paint over it.
Don't look for more problems than you probably have. If the repair seems
stable, do not be tempted to grind it all out just because it 'isn't right'
and replace it with something else that might be cosmetically nicer but is
mechanically equivalent.
Bill Spohn
In a message dated 3/17/2010 9:19:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mikey@b2systems.com writes:
I also need to find out the condition of the original motor as I have
not looked into it yet. When I purchased the car from the original
owner, he said it ran fine with no noises/knocks but knocked when
shutting down the motor, turn off the ignition and there was a knock in
the motor. Last time this motor ran was on the S. Calif. 405 freeway in
1968 when the brakes went out and the car was parked until I purchased
it. There is a visible crack in the side of the block that has been
brazed, not welded, but brazed.
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