John,
I suspect that many people switching to synthetics may be going from 20W50
to something like 5W50 and that can't be kosher, synthetic or not.
Glen
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-british-cars@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-british-cars@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Macartney
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 8:07 PM
> To: british-cars@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Synthetic oil and Waxoyl - long
>
>
> Synthetic
> I refuse to use it on the grounds of cost - but there are other
> reasons as well. I was in a UK store yesterday buying Duckhams 20/50
> for my Triumph and pondered the cost for a five litre can of Mobil 1
> 5W/40. At GBP35 (US$50 approx) my mind didn't need any further
> convincing. There are cheaper synthetics available here that claim to
> meet Euro/API specs but a colleague in Land Rover engineering has
> suggested I avoid them. Like many low cost mineral alternatives, there
> is allegedly technical evidence they can be 'lacking' in certain
> areas. I don't doubt Mobil 1 is probably the right oil for a given
> task - but not at 10 bucks a litre and this price is not untypical in
> the UK and follows our fuel prices as well. My own engine rarely
> exceeds 3500rpm on any day, simply because of its high gearing and
> overdrive on top of that. I'm hard pushed to keep within our speed
> limits as it is! I hit the normal speed limit at about 2250 in O/D
> fourth- so no-one could claim things are being stretched! So, do I
> need a high spec oil for such gentle use?
> On another tack, visitors to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
> where I work, regularly ask whether synthetic is better than mineral
> on 'classic' engines. The research we conducted with Rover engineering
> and a number of technical people at clubs some two years ago, revealed
> that "it depends on the engine." There is evidence that some old
> engines are more tolerant of synthetics than others. MGB, BMC 'A'
> series (Spridgets) and Triumphs as a whole don't seem too bothered
> with synthetic, while Rover engines from the P6 (Rover 2000) and
> certain Rootes Group cars - mainly Alpines, are allegedly not so
> happy. I wouldn't say this is a firm ruling but evidenced by the
> experience of users. Climate probably has a lot to do with it as well?
> The UK climate is not an extreme one, so we don't (often) have
> continuous high daily temps of 30degC +. Maybe this supports mineral
> better? One man I know who fully rebuilt a Holbay engine from a
> Sunbeam Rapier started using synthetic after about 7000 miles when
> things had fully bedded down, only having to strip it out again
> because the synthetic caused glazing in the bores. He now runs it on
> GTX and claims the engine is quieter and more economical. All round, a
> 'modern' engine may be more suited to synthetic because of higher
> operating pressures, speeds and temps. Another found that synthetic on
> his Rover 2000TC quickly damaged the engine oil seals, so he's back on
> mineral. All you can do is try it and see but I wouldn't agree that
> synthetic is the obvious and logical choice for all engines purely
> because of its undoubted technological strengths.
> I also don't subscribe to laying up a car for the winter. I change the
> oil and filter every 3000 miles or three months and use a flushing oil
> every two changes. With 240,000 miles on the clock and no intermediate
> oil top ups, I'm happy to stay with a good quality mineral and I doubt
> I'd keep even a synthetic in an engine for up to 10,000 miles. My 1970
> Triumph is used as a daily driver and alternates daily with my
> eurobox. I also have access to an outside drive up ramp with a hot
> high pressure washer so the effects of winter salt can be kept at bay.
> I blast both cars at least once a month in winter - a messy job, but
> worth it.
>
> Waxoyl
> A good product - if you can stand the smell, which I can't. I prefer
> to use another product called Dinitrol, which while its more
> expensive, remains more elastic - IOW it heals itself if a sharp stone
> chip should briefly make a penetrating contact through to the paint..
> I've just finished hand painting the underside of the car and each
> wheelhouse with the stuff and last weekend did the sills. This
> involved temporarily plugging the drain holes and spraying Dinitrol
> into strategically drilled holes under each door kickplate that are
> covered with rubber plugs. I then took the car for a good run along
> some twisting roads and up/down hilly bits so the liquid slopped
> around as much as possible. Then unplugged the drain holes two days
> later and probed some wire through them so water can drain out. I
> Dinitrol every two years and with the second layer now in place, its
> also a bit quieter - I think.
>
> Jonmac
> MG 4305 DLO 1970 Triumph 2.5PI, TED 152318 1950 Ferguson TED20
> "Children in back seats cause accidents. Accidents in back seats cause
> children."
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