Customer No. RF108426
Car: 1979 TR-7 Conv., Federal/Dual Carb.
First - a question about air filters for the TR-7:
The first filter I purchased, a couple of years ago, came
with a rubber gasket around the outside of the metal filter
frame and fit precisely inside the housing. So precisely
that putting the cover back on was a bit of a pain.
I recently purchased another air filter, and it came
without the rubber gasket. When I put the gasket from the
old filter on the new one, it did not fit inside the filter
housing - in fact, the new filter is an exact fit without the
gasket.
I somehow have the feeling that there should be a gasket
in place, but can't do it with the new filter. Are there
more than one of these available for different model years?
Or is the latest purchase a new design that replaces the old
one? I somehow have the feeling that the thing should have a
gasket seal of some kind around it.
Second - I could really use some help on this one:
Shortly after driving the TR7 from NY to Florida when we
moved - like after the first fill-up when I got here - I've
had a "miss" problem that is confounding.
The car ran like a top for the whole trip down, with the
exception of a couple of "coughing fits" going uphill in the
Blue Ridge mountains at speeds over 70 MPH. Insufficient
fuel? (Thanks to downstate NY's super-oxygenated fuel, I
have replaced 4 fuel filters and all of the fuel hoses
between June and the trip in October.)
Now the car seems to only be running on 3 cylinders at
startup. After about 10 to 20 minutes of (easy) driving the
car runs like it should, but during the "transition", there
is backfiring at certain throttle positions. The backfires
seem to indicate a lean mixture, but a spark plug check shows
all to be normal except the No.3 which is carbon fouled,
indicating a rich mixture.
I have checked all of the vacuum hoses (all good), carb
diaphrams, tried all sorts of carb adjusting, to no avail.
Also checked the fuel filters again and the fuel pump screen.
Rotor and distributor cap seem to be OK (only about 5000
miles on them, and I cleaned them anyhow). Measured plug
wire resistances (cold) and they seem to be OK. The miss is
in either the #3 or #4 cylinder. The rear carburetor needle
is set at the richest possible setting -that's the place that
seems to work the best. The front carb needle is also set
near the richest setting, based on adjustmets made via the
"lift the piston slightly" method. I haven't sprung for a
"colortune" yet.
The car is not driven every day, and the problem seems
to be worse (it takes longer to run right) the longer it
sits - but that's just a subjective feeling.
Any help, suggestions, or whatever will be greatly
appreciated.
OH - one more question:
The heat riser cover over the exhaust manifold (the thing the
hot air hose connects to), part no. TKC1105, is rusting out
and needs replacing, but is not listed in the Green price
book which says it's not available. Any suggestions?
Any and all help will be really appreciated. Y'all be
good and enjoy the winter weather I left behind.
Dick Edwin
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Dick: There used to be a gasket used to seal the container, but
unfortunately it is now NLS. One suggestion might be to lay a thin bead of
silicone sealer in place of the old gasket, wait a few minutes so that it
sets up a little and then install the element.
The coughing fits might be caused by moisture in the fuel system,
faulty plug wires or coil. Wiggle the plug wires when testing. Perhaps the
automatic choke is acting up?
You may want to check with a salvage yard on the heat riser cover, or
perhaps even make one.
Feel free to call our tech. line at 814-446-4491 is you need
additional info.
-CHEERS-
^^^^^^^^
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