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Lagonda brake unions

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Lagonda brake unions
From: Duncan Bryan <bryan@Roborough.gpsemi.COM>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 1994 13:38:49 GMT
*Date: Tue, 1 Nov 1994 09:15:42 -0500
*From: jll4@cornell.edu (John Lumley)

*I am restoring a 1950 DB Lagonda 2.6L DHC.  I need a source for male brake
*unions for 1/4" piping in 7/16" x 20 threads per inch, 3/4" long, in either
*brass or stainless.  These are old-fashioned single flare, and have a 7/16"
*hex.  I have tried Worral Exclusives and Namrick in the UK without luck. 
*Any ideas?  

This sounds a bit like Citroen pipes.   Citroen HP pipes have
a single flare (mostly), but are all metric size threads. I'll have a look
in my Pleiades catalogue ( if I can find it ) as there may be something
suitable.

Do you have the pipe flaring tool?

If all else fails you could re-tap the brake cylinder union thread
for a more readily available union size. ( sorry for suggesting
such a bodge, but pragmatism rules. )

On the subject of bodges... I rescued an old Puch 4 stroke lawnmower
from the tip, sorry recycling centre. The only thing wrong with it
was that the magneto seemed reluctant to give anything beyond
16 volts p-p.  The flywheel was held on with a 14mm (AF) left handed thread
nut.  WHilst trying to pull the flywheel off I damaged the thread on
the crank - oops. Left handed thread dies are very hard to find these days,
especially if you can only go shopping after 5 p.m. So, the magneto now
sparks ( poor insulation - broken down with moisture) and the flywheel is
pushed back onto its taper ( Using the Wigan screwdriver, or BBH, or to the
uninitiated a 5 pound hammer ).  All that remains now is to retain the flywheel
on the taper. I could nicely recut the thread using a die and use a nut
with a locktab or drill a hole and use a castle nut.  ALternatively I
could stuff some washers onto the thread and use chemical steel to hold
it in place..... this is how bodges are born!

Duncan.


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