On Mon, 26 Sep 1994 Charles.Y.Farwell@att.com wrote:
> Ok. So a month ago I was in the market for an early MGB. Today I
> went and bought a '62 TR4. There's no need to rationalize LBC
> purchases, right?
Of course not. OTOH, I (a long-time MG addict) bought my TR4 under
exactly the same circumstances, so I may be the wrong person to ask...
> This is my first Triupmh purchase, and my first foray into LBCs
> since I was old enough to know better! I have several queries
> for the collective wisdom concerning this, an early '4 commision
> #CT3854.
Old enough to know better??? Isn't that age also known as "deceased"?
I'm 50 and have been at it since I was about 15! Incidentally, our cars
are only 700 apart. Mine is CT3154LO.
> - The tr4 has wire wheels (great!), but they're 48 spoke, not 60
> (not so great). I've read that these are marginal on the '4 and
> should perhaps be replaced with 60's for the increased strength.
> Any experiences/comments?
It depends on what kind of driving you do. If it's at all spirited,
you'll be better off with 60-spokers. Incidentally, I was always under
the impression that the TR4 came with 60-spoke wheels (4.5 inch rim
width). Do you know if yours are original to the car? If so, it's
possible that the very early TR4 carried over the 48-spoke (4 inch width)
wheels of the TR3. Not surprising, since so much else was carried over
from the TR3 to the early TR4.
> - The tr4 has the early type intake manifold, which I understand
> was replaced in later years by and improved version. Is the new
> manifold a drop-in replacement for the old, or does it involve
> significant work? Will I reap noticable effects?
The original short-runnered log-type manifold and SU H6 carbs were
another carryover from the TR3. The late manifold has much longer
runners and is meant to be used with the shorter-bodied Zenith-Stromberg
175CD carb or (I think) SU HS6. You _can_ use the late manifold with the
H6 carbs, but you'll have to modify the inner wheel well (i.e. bash a
dent in it) to clear the choke linkage. There is a slight performance
advantage, but you'll be hard-pressed to notice it in normal driving. I
don't think it's worth it.
> - The tonneau doesn't fit! I assume at one time it did, but the
> dry climate and years have made the last to snap-ons impossible.
> Any way to stretch this thing so that it will remain streched
> and not _significantly_ weaken it?
Snap all the rear snaps, leave the side snaps unsnapped, unzip the
zipper, and try to snap the four front snaps. If you really lean into
it, and if it's a warm day, you may be able to do it. If you're really
lucky, the tonneau cover won't rip like mine did! Careful use of a heat
lamp, heat gun, or hair dryer will warm the vinyl and help it stretch,
but the shrinkage is actually in the cloth backing so don't expect heat
to produce miracles. Depending on the type of cloth used, wetting it may
make it temporarily stretchier. The only permanent cure is a new
tonneau, because there's no way I know of to permanently stretch a
shrunken one.
I had a new Robbins tonneau "professionally" fitted winter before last,
and they installed it so tight that even on the hottest summer days it was
a real bear to snap up. Early this past spring it ripped in half as I was
snapping it. Money's a bit tight, so I spent the summer tonneau-less, and
given the extraordinary monsoon weather and the cruddy area I park in at
work, the top had to stay up almost all the time. Grrrrr!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO (daily transportation)
feold@umd5.umd.edu
|