Hi
< The best way to get fine control would be to fit a dual-master system,
< such as many Tilton competition brake setups, with a pressure limiter
< on each, set so that the rear system reaches maximum pressure (that is,
< stops pushing the pads) at a lower pedal setup than the front. If you
< are of a particularly meticulous mind, you could hook it up as follows:
< #1 master to FRONT brakes ONLY
< #2 master to proportioning valve that varies pressure to FRONT and REAR
< The advantage there is that you'd still end up with progressively more
< pressure to the front, but you could use the prop valve to vary the
< amount of front-rear split on the #2 master to get the right feel at
< the rear. Since this is street-driven, you probably wouldn't need
< to worry about dynamically changing to compensate for tire wear and
< fuel load, but the adjustability would mean you could dial for the
< feel you really like. Or of course it might just give you something
< to fiddle with while you drive, or an excuse to reach over and goose
< your passenger's thigh if you like. :-)
Sorry, I got a bit confused here. I thought with a dual system the front
and rear caliper design set the basic fore/aft balance with the adjustable
balance bar giving a range of tuning so that the rears do not lock up
before the front under the given surface conditions. This is under
max braking conditions. If the braking is less, there is no question of
locking up. You may want the rears to contribute proportionally more to
that stop but its not clear to me if the net effect is different or the
stop is more stable to the extent of so much extra sophistication and
implementation effort.
John Sanders
(I'm a bit paranoid with brakes,
prefer completely separate circuits and avoid using hydraulic switches and
valves.)
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