In your message you write:
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 22 Mar 94 10:23:34 CST
> From: tooze@vinny.cecer.army.mil (Marcus Tooze)
> Subject: more misfiring
>
> Hmmmm, interesting.
>
> Just talked to a brit. mech. in Peoria (the one whos shutting up shop)
> and he sugested an interesting fix to my distributor problem. He said that
> the internals are always worn on these distributors, so what he does
> sometimes is to weld the advance mechanism into position, and do away
> with the vacuum system! Mega PO fiddle.
actually, it is a common racing practice to pin the mechanism at
full advance, so as to avoid complication. This will hurt low speed
driveablility, which is not a racing concern.
The advance on my 1275 is set to go to full advance by around
2500-3000 rpm. Using the stock springs, you are not likely to get
full advance till about 5000rpm. This is probably done to avoid
detonation due to non-racing fuel.
>
> The 1275 needs a max. of 37 degrees at full advance
> (This comes from the advance supplied by the dizzy, shown by number
> stamped on the breaker cam, a number 10 thru 18, this is doubled because
> the cam runs at 2x crank. The remaining advance comes from the timing notch
> adjustment). With the diz. internals welded in place, one simply finds
> the 37deg. point on the pulley wheel, and times to that point.
>
>Marcus
I use 30 deg total advance...but at lower compression ratios, say
10-11.5 to 1, you should be able to get by fine with 37 deg if you
use premium fuel.
above 30deg advance does not seem to provide much more power on my
car...but does generate more heat.(but I have 13.5 to 1 comp.)
I find that an advance timing light is the easiest to use.
Jim
jfuerstenberg@dcmdc.dla.mil
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