YES!
I just got on board today, and read my first batch of mailings. I can't
overstate how good it feels to be plugged into a network of british car
fanatics. I don't need to hide my true love from you folks! You're all
just like me! This is so theraputic.
I would love some technical help. For two years now I have been restoring a
1976 MGB roadster. It will be on the road for the first time (legally) this
spring. After reading TeriAnn's note, that seems like an eterinty.
The car was given to me by a friend moving to Denver, and
while the gift was a gracious act, the car needed work, lots of work. Now I
know that you real MG fans are already tuning out- ,"it's just a rubber bumber
slug." I used to feel like that too, my last B was a mint '66. But I was
between cars and, well, any port in a storm. I now love that car as much as
any I have ever owned, and have taken an approach that was the only
respectable course of action for a 1976, modify the hell out it.
I have undone most of what makes a 76 less than desirable, which brings me to
the point. I have a retro-fitted the engine with a pair of SU HS6 carbs,
installed a Piper 1/4 race cam, and a free flow exhaust. It growls and purrs
like an Aston Martin. But leaves me wondering:
1. How sensitive are SU's to a change in air flow requirements?
Should/can I change the needle and spring combo? Can I play games with the
weight of the damping fluid to impact transient response?
2. The carbs are from a RHD '68 Volvo, and when mated to an MGB intake
manifold, seem to tilt in towards the engine at about 15 degrees from
horizontal. Does that change how the float sets the level of the fuel in
the jet? Is this a second order concern?
3. What differnce in ride will be incurred by switching to MGBV8
bushings, or nylon? Has anyone tried those negative camber A arms?
Man, this is great. Where have you guys been all my life?
Skip Cusack
cusack@pokey.msd.ray.com
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