> Ray Gibbons said:
>
> Embrace rustoleum red rusty metal primer. It is great stuff, if you let
> it dry a *long* time. Either a) use rustoleum finishes on it, per
> directions, or b) let it dry several days or weeks, then coat with any
> enamel paint. But not lacquer.
or c) put nothing on top, in which case the lovely soft red-brown shows to
the world. This is my practice on the '74 Saab beater. I used to worry about
topcoat incompatibility and matching the original red paint. Now I just spot
blast the rust spots each fall, DA and metal prep them, and shoot some red
Rustoleum primer on. Since the whole car is turning brown spot by spot,
everything will eventually match. Nothing's too good for my cars...
> Ditzler/PPG DP40 or DP50 epoxy primers are really nifty. Waterproof, hard
> as nails, no sand if you recoat soon enough, take just about any finish
> coat. You can apply bondo over the primer, in fact it is recommended that
> you do this. Can be thinned and used as no sand sealer, just before
> finish paint, decreasing likelihood of lifting. Costs like the devil, but
> worth every penny. Wear a good activated charcoal mask with fresh
> cartridges, keep windows open.
All true. I did my MGA chassis in DP90 (same stuff, but black) with Deltron
DAU acrylic urethane topcoat. So far, so good. DP isn't an etch primer, so
the substrate should be metal prepped--or sandblasted steel is OK w/o prep
(so says PPG; I'd still prep: belt-and-suspenders) DP isn't permeable like
lacquer primer-surfacer, so you can prime and then lay up the parts for quite
some time (2 years??), but you do then have to sand before topcoat.
Mike Habich
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