Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com> charges:
> This morning I reinstalled. The regulator and cutout were almost right,
> and I got them back in spec. Everything seems copacetic - the ignition
> warning lamp was indeed burned out (by coincidence or over-voltage...).
>
> I hope this generator lasts longer than the one I took out, which had
> been installed last June! If not, I think I'll go to one of those
> modern single-wire alternators. It looks like I could hook up the
> output to the D terminal on the regulator box and have everything,
> including ignition lamp and ammeter, work...
So you've already converted over to negative ground?? If no, then maybe that
should be your first project. ;^)
> By just hooking up to the D lead, that's essentially what I'm doing,
> except that I'm maintaining all the other instruments and lamps. The
> regulator doesn't get to complete a circuit if nothing's hooked up to
> F, the cutout will always close to charge the battery, and I get to use
> the original wiring harness.
No, I think Phil's right. The "single wire" integral regulator GM alternator
that is most commonly used for this type of upgrade actually has 3 connections:
a stud for a heavy gauge wire _direct_ to the battery and a molex connector
with 2 wires: one for the charge light and the other for switched 12V
(ignition). So I think you will indeed need to remove the mechanical regulator
and slightly change the wiring harness to use one of these alts. You'll
undoubtedly need to modify the bracket, but it's a pretty simple bracket
anyway. And you'll need to swap the fatter pulley from the generator.
> Anyone done this? Know a part number that will fit my TR4A engine mounting?
If you go with the GM unit, you just need to ask for an integral regulator
GM alternator. There has only been one type used from about 1984 to the
present, available in either regular or heavy duty versions.
Pat Vilbrandt Fluke Corporation Everett, Washington USA
pwv@tc.fluke.COM or: { uunet, uw-beaver, sun, microsoft }!fluke!pwv
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