You don't say what LBC is involved, so this might not apply, but here goes.
I have a 1969 MG Midget with wire wheels. I broke a axle half-shaft, and
in the process of replacing it, also replaced the nose seal (or whatever
it's really called) in the diff. If I had it to over again, I would also
replace the universal joints at the same time, because it looks like I'll
have to do them now anyway (1yr later). I had no problem removing the
intact axle shaft, but the nut behind the flange on the propshaft in the
nose of the diff required a length of pipe over a breaker bar. Getting the
broken bit of halfshaft out of the diff required removing it completely.
When you jack up the car, be sure to place your jackstands under the frame
rather than the axle, so that the axle hangs down at the end of the limit
straps, otherwise the diff won't clear the fuel tank when you try to with-
draw it. I cleaned everthing very carefully to get every bit of mangled
halfshaft out. At this point you can inspect the guts of the diff up close
and personal, and if you suspect excessive wear take the thing to a shop.
I don't recommend messing with the pinion pre-load, leave that to a good
diff expert. Installation is the reverse of disassembly :^)
Actually, the biggest problem I had on reassembly is the O-rings that go
in the hubs. I had to stretch them over a plastic 32oz drink cup until
they would stay in the groove long enough for me to get the hub bolted
back together. I suppose it would have been easier if I could have turned
the car on its side ;-).
The end result of all this cleaning and replacement of gear oil was that now
I hear more of the noise coming out of the transmission rather than the diff,
sigh. Next project !
Well the intent of all this is to convince you that you probably can get the
diff apart and re-installed, but that if the guts of the diff are worn, they
should be rebuilt by a competent shop. P.S. Be sure the breather is clear
and not blocked with gunk.
JFK - Kolbj@ymv5.ymp.gov - Safety Fast !
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