Larry Snyder wrote in with questions on his GT6 (with no compression in
cyl #6)....
Larry,
I have recently completed a full engine rebuild of my TR4A. Here's some
comments based on that experience...
- first, either chck the rocker assembly your self for wear or go ahead
and take it to the machine shop and have them assess the wear. A
rebuilt rocker assy for a 4 ran aboout $145. For a 6 - don't know.
- Bronze guide ran about $4 per valve, I think
- hardened seats ran about $15 ea
- Take them everything, but remember what studs are on there and make
sure you have a list of what was on it when you take it in. The machine
shop I used has a small town atmosphere and were great to deal with,
except for one complaint: they don't write down a detailed receipt for
what you drop off. Not a trust issue, but when I went back to get the
stuff, I forgot (and so did they) to pick up the tappets. Then later
when assemblying, I realized they had the push rods! This is the shop I
used for the lower end. I started with them with the head, but the head
was cracked so I retrieved it to work with a TR shop in the SFBay that
had old heads.
- Many shops offer the choice of new or used valves. Well, in my
opinion, go new if you're doing it al anyway. It's not a big price deal.
- I've heard of the air repssure in the spark plug hole trick before.
It works and you don't need much pressure.
- Lastly, look real hard at the rest of the engine internas after you
get the head off. If there's a lot of gunk in the water jackes it may
be signs of it making sense to do more. I thought a valve job was all I
might need, but decided to do the lower end after finding massive
quantities of crud where coolant was supposed to be. Its a good thing I
did, as the rings were shot and voids were growing on the sides of two
pistons.
Good luck,
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Jim Brannan (1966 Red TR4A)
Rocklin, CA
wk: 916-785-4776, hm: 916-624-9318, email jbrannan@hprpcd.rose.hp.com
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