Greg Meythaler <Greg_Meythaler@ccm.hf.intel.com> writes:
> I remember reading a while back about
> getting vacuum boosters rebuilt, but I wasn't able to find
> anything by searching the vendor list for vacuum, booster, or
> brake.
Roger Bolick posted some information on this topic in December of 1991;
WARNING: This information may be out of date! Anyway, here are the answers
he gave. (N.B. I'm not sure that Roger's email address is still
rgb@hal.com. Anyone else know?)
>From Roger Bolick:
>Its been several months and likely 30-40 phone calls, but here is
>part of the answer. I have found a place in San Antonio, TX that
>will rebuild TR250/6 brake boosters and any others that they have parts
>for. Usually you will have to send it to them for inspection, my
>guess is they can fix almost anything. There is one guy who specializes
>in foreign boosters, so I SUGGEST you should send your SPARE boosters
>to him while he's still working there and willing to do this.
>
>As I said before, these things have a rubber diaphram, and seem to
>have about a 20 year life, so a junk spare is a short term solution,
>besides, the brake fluid seems to attack the diaphram. In order to
>obtain the "jobber" price (no credit cards, etc. so these guys are
>NOT setup to do business with individuals), do the following:
>
>Enclose a letter with information which may be of help, i.e. car make/model,
>exact trouble, etc. including:
>
>From: Exact Systems - Roger Bolick
> 8920 Business Park Dr., Suite 300
> Austin, TX 78759
> (512) 794-2855
>
>Ship To: Your Name
> Your address
> Your phone
>
>Package this in a box with newpaper and ship to:
>
> John Wilson
> c/o Industrial Brake and Clutch
> 5241 Old Seguin Rd. (Kirby)
> San Antonio, TX 78219
> (512) 661-9658
>
>Your booster will be returned via UPS C.O.D. in about 3 weeks.
>I use an office address due to the C.O.D. and leave a blank check
>made out to Industrial Brake and Clutch at the front desk.
>
>The cost using this method is $98.00 + COD and includes:
>sandblasting (or something) of the unit
>replacement of all rubber parts
>painting of the unit (black)
>replacement of the check valve if necessary
>
>I remove the check valve as these are no longer available and the
>replacement will NOT be the same... Silicon spray and 2 large screwdrivers
>working on opposite sides pulling JUST the valve seems to work. Check
>this by putting this on the booster hose and cranking the engine.
>
>If anyone has problems, let me know. These guys also rebuild clutch's,
>etc. if you have a special need, they may be able to do it.
>
>Roger
>rgb@hal.com
Lee M. Daniels - Laboratory for Molecular Structure and Bonding - Texas A&M
daniels@lmsbvx.tamu.edu | DANIELS@TAMLMSB.BITNET | (409) 845-3726
"We bury the hatchet, but leave the handle stickin' out" -G.Brooks
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