My $.02 regarding several queries of late:
Nick writes:
> 3. Is it easier/cheaper to rebuild the steering rack or buy the whole
> TRF rebuilt rack?
I replaced mine a year ago with the TRF rebuild. Much satisfaction. The
parts required to rebuild it are not very expensive, if they are available,
but I wasn't in the mood to experiment with it. I don't do gearboxes either.
It's important to know your limitations. Seriously, though, the rack didn't
look too tough to do, I was feeling flush and lazy.
> 4. ... should I simply get the regular rubber bushings, or
> should I get the nylock/plastic bushings?
I put in the high performance bushings when I did the rear last year. They
are *very* hard, and I split one trying to put it in. The ride didn't
suffer at all though (which makes sense if you think about it...)
> 6. Even more esoteric; do I need to replace the rubber differential
> mounts? Or if they look "OK" simply use the old ones?
Go ahead and replace them. They're cheap, and the job is not that hard if
you've got a floor jack.
Kevin writes:
> there's about 5 degrees of vagueness in the steering under these
> conditions. I'm afraid I have a cracked frame somewhere or something,
Check the U-joint in the steering column - mine is worn and produces a few
degrees of slop. Also check the rubber joint in the column, and rock
the steering wheel while you watch the rack - is the pinion flexing? are
the new mounting bushings allowing any motion? Check the tie-rod ends
(the inners by feel) while rocking the wheel and look for play. Also,
how are the steering column bushings? does the wheel move up and down? I've
had to attend to all these things over the years. Then go get the alignment
checked - poor alignment can cause really quirky behaviour.
Scott C. writes:
[stuff about a BRG '76 TR6 deleted]
> $3500. Is this a good price? What common defects should I look for?
Sounds like deal to me if the car is in good shape (sounds like it is
from what he wrote). Go over the car with the buyers' checklist. Don't
be afraid to get underneath the car for a good look, check the frame
thouroughly (sp?) especially the suspension mounting points (rear), uprights
(front - and where they mount to the frame) and differential mounts. Try
to rock the wheels to check for bearing/suspension play, and check the
hydraulics for operation/looks. The fluid will usually get greyish as the
MC seals deteriorate. Mechanically, they are very easy/nice to work on. I
hate body work, so my advice would be to check it carefully.
> He claims he's selling the car since his Healey's are more dependable.
Yeah, well, I'd like to find out someday 8^) My TR6 has been _very_
dependable through 5+ years as a daily driver.
> (I like the BRG with tan leather on the TR6)
My favorite combination too. Mine is laurel green (really dark) with black
interior.
And Finally, Larry writes:
> Since space is so tight, I'm going to remove the seats by removing the two
> bolts each one pivots on. Then I'll remove the sliding rails, if possible.
That's how I get the seats out of my TR6. I can't slide them far enough back
to get at the front rail mounts because of the roll-bar. I've never had any
trouble getting it all back together, but YMMV.
AMF,
John
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