Scotty wrote:
>Now you've done it. You went and called your car dependable. That's
>what I called mine and look what happened! Well, it's still never
>left me stranded. I'm still amazed that your running the the same
>gearbox and engine. Have you EVER pulled the head on that car?
mumble, mumble..... absolutely refuse to answer that question about a
car that's soon to turn 30. Besides Scotty, you've got a HP-LBC.
I saw an interesting note about paint removal in the Flash, the AHSTC
publication. They suggest dipping the part in a solution of 500 g caustic
soda (NaOH) per bucket of water. Attach one lead of your battery charger
to the part and one lead to another hunk o' metal. Don't turn your battery
charger above 30 amps, else you're likely to burn it out. The folks who
had
used this approach were very happy with it, it removes both paint and
rust. About twelve hours per part were required.
If anyone wants more details, I can get them. This is basically the
same thing you could get done professionally, but for small parts (or even
stuff
that would fit in a big, plastic garbage can) this could be pretty
convenient.
One word of caution, basic solutions will dissolve eyes
in a hurry.
The second step involves dipping the part in a solution of molasses ?!
This apparently "steals the oxygen from the rust." This left me
temporarily
confused. I was trying to figure out how molasses could do this. Perhaps
it is acting as a reducing sugar. If this is true, then high fructose corn
syrup or
the pure fructose you can buy in the supermarket would be even better.
I'll probably set this up sometime in the future
(even slow cars rust, just not as quickly)
The article recommended steel wool w/ soap afterwards to remove loose
debris and then priming the part.
Mark M. Banaszak Holl
Brown University
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