Following up on a fine article on pre-purchase inspections, here are
some minor tips to add.
Another way to detect bondo under paint is with a weak refridgerator
magnet (the kind that falls off if you put more than one sheet of paper
under it). It sticks just fine where the metal is just covered by paint,
but even a fairly light layer of bondo will make its attraction
noticeably anemic.
New paint jobs should always be treated with suspicion. Ask about the
shop that did it, and take the time to check the place out. Even if
the job was done while the rubber and chrome were out, there's no
guarantee that they properly prepared the surface. Especially watch
for bullseye marks and orange-peel surface texture. And find out what
kind of paint was used. "Umpteen coats of laquer" may sound fancy,
but it can also craze badly.
When peeling back rubber, look under the rubber on the inside too, to
guage how much the interior color has faded (or if it's been dyed).
Be sure to try all the electricals (lights, signals, wipers, horn,
radio, interior lights, etc.). Watch the ammeter as you flip each
switch to see if it deflects an unusual amount (possibly indicating
a short). "Just a burned out bulb" should be checked, since it may
indicate a bad or shorting connector.
Also, pay attention to the smell of the interior -- it should smell
like a car. If you smell mildew or urine or other strange scents,
there may be rotten padding under the carpets that is causing
floor rust. There may also be rodents living in the sills and other
box sections (or perhaps just their nests remain to hold moisture).
The sills under the doors, are commonly rusted out. Also check around
suspension mounting points. It's costly to have to rebuild the metal
all around where major items mount, since the items have to be
removed and the repair has to be substantial enough to bear the
load.
Sight along the sides and bottom of the car to see if it is straight,
and that the doors and bonnet fit properly when closed (not that they
necessarily did when it left the factory). Also open the doors carefully
as far as they will go, to see if the check straps are in tact. (If
not, look for bondo under the paint where the front of the door
swings into the bodywork -- don't forget the magnet!)
Peel up the carpets if you can and brush away the rust around the
corners -- look for an places where light shines through. Poke at
the rust with a screwdriver (firmly). It may just go through.
Look for signs of rust, such as bubbling paint, especially around
trimwork like headlamp rings -- often a sign of a cheap overpaint
that didn't entirely kill an earlier case of rust.
On a hatchback coupe, pour some water over the door and watch for
leaks on the inside (may just be a bad seal, but could also
indicate a rear-end collision whose repair left the hatch fitting
badly).
Well, that's all that strike me off-the-cuff as it were. Not nearly
as well organized as the earlier posting, but hopefully of some use.
Chip
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