Thanks to everyone who offered me advice on my overheating TR6.
Since the cooling system had just been overhauled (new thermostat, sender
and inlet manifold, recored radiator), I decided to give my local
TR mechanic a crack at it. He did some temperature testing and
determined that my gauge was reading high -- 160 degrees was reading
exactly 1/2 way, and 190 degrees was 2/3. He said that these were
reasonable temperatures and that 160 degrees should read farther to
the left. Does this sound plausible to everyone?
I flushed the Dot3 brake fluid out of my system and filled it
with Dot4 right after I got all your responses. It's too bad I blew it
using the wrong stuff but at least I'll know how to rebuild the master
cylinder when I have to do it again. Somebody already asked this but I
saw no replies -- Why don't they make rebuild kits that don't use
natural rubber? Does Moss have an agreement with the brake fluid people
to make us buy the expensive stuff? :)
I'm trying to clean up what looks like some light surface rust
on my trunk. I read Mike Harlan's post and went to work. It looked
like a fair amount of rust before I started, but when I sanded a little
of the top coat off, most was gone and by the time I got to bare metal,
there was practically none -- just a few small pits. What's going
on here, is there a problem with my paint?
So then I primed it and waited a few days. Now I see brown
discoloration under the primer (it's white). Is this likely to be
rust again? - I thought the primer would protect against this.
My mechanic said it might be rusting from the inside but wouldn't
I be able to see the rust when I got down to bare metal?
Thanks in advance,
Kevin Brown San Diego State University
brown@saturn.sdsu.edu Soon to be U of South Carolina
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