I've got a problem with my fuel gauge and my temp gauge on my '75 TR6.
They both read low. The temp gauge reads about 1/4 of the dial at
full temp, and the fuel gauge reads 3/4 a tank when the tank is full.
Many of you suggested that I replace the voltage stabilizer since I saw
the problem in both gauges several months back. Convinced that this
was the problem, 30minutes and $20 later, I still have low gauges!
Can someone tell me what voltages I should be reading on the back of
these gauges? My alternator is putting about 14.47 volts and is very
stable at all available RPMs :-). Can anyone give me some checks I
can do with the wiring and the correct voltages I should be reading?
The voltage stabilizer has four connections on the back of it. Four
wires are hooked to mine, but only using two connectors. This seems
fine to me, but who knows... Should there be a ground wire to this
thing? It attaches to the back of the speedometer and I don't think
that it would have a good ground that way... I would entertain any
ideas that come my way, as I'm tired of looking decorative gauges.
Mark Steph's story reminded me of when I replaced the outer bearings
in my rear end. Well, not *my* rear end, but my TR6's rear. Once I
got the flange off the rear, I attempted to "tap" it apart with my
trusty hammer. No way. Next I took it to a shop which specialized in
driveshafts and other moving parts. They put it on their 20 ton
press, and nothing happened. Next the owner of the shop "Tapped" it
with his hammer (while in the press) and, POW! Parts exploded apart
with vigor. Thankful, I paid him for his time and went on my way.
-Scott
---
Isn't it amazing how parts that are supposed to come apart don't and
parts that are supposed to stay together rattle free?
|