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Re: Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers...

To: british-cars@autox.team.net, rw1@st-andrews.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers Land Rovers...
From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 92 09:30:58 -0700
Ross,
I "saw the Light" in 1976 when I aquire my first Land Rover, a late IIA 88.
In 1987 I replaced the 88 with my current Series II 109 pickup that mow
has a long tropical toof instaed of the pick up cab.  

A 1977 and ONLY 80K miles?  My 109 is pushing 500,000

1 & 2 Try first heating the bolt with a propane tourch to try to get the
threads of the bolt to move in relation to its environment.  After the bolts
have cooled, bash them a bit with a knock off hammer (lead faced). Next
spray penatrating oil on it.  Give it a couple of hours for the oil to
penatrate. Finally, get a 6 point socket and a braker bar & go for it.

That is the most "all stops out method that I know of.  If I have stuck
bolts and am afraid that I will break one or more, I take the car to a 
shop.  If they break a bolt, they have the tools to get the parts out.

3.  I welcome the Land Rover badge back into the US.  These days most people
have forgotten what a Land Rover is & think my LR is a Toyota Land Cruzer:*(
I  would prefer to see both 90 & 110s in all configurations though.
It my understanding that the Defender will come maxed out with every possible
accessory to jack the price up.

4.  I never got around to figguring out GIFs, so it wouldn't matter to me.

5. Not knowing your Series III, I would guess $3-5K US.  Series III is
considered less desirable than the series IIA here.  A rusty frame is a big -.
The most desirable Land Rover here is the DoorMobile.  Second is a 2 door,
109.  88s & 109 four doors are about the same in desirability.

TeriAnn
'60 Series II 109 2 door, '61 TR3A,  '68 MGBGT


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