My comments on Teriann's:
> [ ... ] I made
> the assumption that everything was going to be new except for the block,
> flywheel crank and rods. Since I am going to the TR4A head, I purchased a
> used bare head, & had a machine shop check it over, install hardened valve
> seats, oversize valves & new valve springs. The rebuilt head is now sitting
> in a plastic bag, along with a rebuilt rocker assembly {new shaft, arms with
> new bushings, new adjusting screws, and resurfaced end}.
I would recommend getting a reground crank. Having slop at crank
bearings isn't going to help your "new" engine. I'm very wary of
hardened valve seats in MGBs after seeing what happened to Sam's head
after about 15 hours with new hardened seats. When storing things
like heads, cranks, whatever, oil them liberally, put them in a box,
an put the box in a plastic bags. Oil will, over time, soften the
plastic and you may end up with oil leaking and picking bits of
plastic off the pieces.
> 2. Clean the engine & engine compartment BEFORE you start taking anything
> appart!!! Steam cleaning is best but a do it yourself car wash is almost as
> good. The job goes ever so much easier & more pleasently if you are not
> dealing with a foot of grease and dirt.
I find this step a bit unnecessary. Get the engine out, dealing with
the grime, then spend the time cleaning. Of course, Scott (Fisher)
and I pulled my engine out of his race car last night, and it was
very nice to complete the job with just a couple oily smudges on our
hands.
> Dirt is the enemy of the inside of your engine! Keep your work
> area clean, wipe your tools before putting them down. When you are
> reassembling an engine, wash your hands whenever they get dirty.
Very true. Make sure every piece of hardware and every bracket you
put back on the engine is spotless.
> 5. When I first started, I placed nuts & bolts into containers so they would
> not get lost. I just grabbed a fasterner that looked right during
>rerassembly.
> What I do now is replace bolts or nuts in their holes/ studs after
>disassembly.
> clean the threads!!! Except for nylocs {which should be replaced, not reused}
I would recommend against reusing any bolts, studs, and nuts that are
used for holding together bearing or sealing surfaces. This covers
most of the hardware you'll pull out of an engine. These parts WILL
be deformed, even though you might not see it. Torque specs given
for reassembly count on the elasticity still being in the hardware.
Self locking nuts are wonderful. They have little or no place inside
an engine. If you think the part has the potential to get so hot you
can't touch it, DON'T use nylock nuts. You can get high temperature,
self locking nuts (with no nylon) if you really want, but I would
recommend using standard hardware. Self locking nuts can be reused
(in non-bearing and sealing apllications) if you can't thread the nut
on by hand because of the nylon. Since those puppies run about a
dime to a dollar each, there's no point in throwing away a good one.
> 12. If you can get a factory manual. Hayes manuals are generally NOT good
> enough. They cut corners & maximize their boilerplate paragraphs, often
> at the expense of the information that you needed. I have generally found
> that the British produce good readable, well ilustrated manuals.
Well, I'll contradict this. A Haynes manual is a fine guide for
rebuilding a B engine. The Bentley manual may be a little more
complete, but my first B rebuild was done entirely from the Haynes
manual with on problem.
Enjoy
andy
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