On Buffing:
>Nark mentioned polishing parts of his SU's
>Mike...polished the nuts and bolts and even the trunnion.
>is amazing how quickly the corosion hits
Yea. When I rebuild things, I clean up the hardware with a bench mounted
wire wheel, which makes them work good again, and can give a nice shine on
steel parts, as well as rough Al. (Alternator, Manifold, etc.) The problem
here is many of the steel parts originaly had (or should have had) a
bit of protective coating. (Zinc, or that yellowish stuff.) A lot of this
stuff looks nice polished, and really doesn't want to be color painted.
But there must be something better than letting them rust again. Some
kind of dip treatment for steel parts? Any Ideas?
And, how about polished engine parts, like Aluminium rocker covers,
carbs, etc? Are there any good products to at least keep them from
corroding during storage, if not in use? (A coating of WD 40 is not really
the best thing for the adjoining painted parts) And those brass carb links
look so nice when they've just been polished too...
Larry comments on SU's:
>Just be DAMN careful not to drop the dome.
Or the piston!
>They are machined down to about 0.1 RCH tolerance
Spoken like a true machinist. :-)
> Gee, I wonder if it would improve performance if the pistons
>on different SUs were balanced, so that the same airflow meant
>the same piston rise.
You bet- truly balanced carbs should have matching piston response.
You could spend quite a bit of time doing it, due to the effects
of passage sizes, dome/piston clearences, weights, and factor-x.
Some kind of flow bench might be useful.
And, from Roland:
A story of terror, of flats, and trying to remove the tires from
his wire wheels.
>Don't know whether that was because solid rims inherently
>have fewer flats than wire rims
Wires can be more flat prone, as there is more flex, and the ends of
the spokes can rub against the inner tube. Always make sure the
liner band or tape between the tube and rim is in good shape. Loose
spokes can really do a number on your tubes.
>always made doubly sure beforehand that they had the
>proper equipment to handle the job.
Especially true with wires today. Theres not too many places that know how
to treat them. Some of those machines could really do a good job of
making speggetti out of your wires! Also, be careful with some of the
thin rims, like the flimsy 4"ers found on early Sprites!
I've got a manual tire mounting/breaking stand, which should
do a decent job of delicately mounting on the old rims.(once I get the
stand mounted to the floor) But, I may still find myself up the street
to borrow the mnumatic bead breaker from time to time, if bouncing up
and down on the foot-lever for a while doesn't do the trick!
________________________________________________________
Roger Garnett (garnett@BATCOMPUTER.TN.CORNELL.EDU)
The South Lansing Centre For Wayward Sports Cars:
"50 Years of MG's- 1934-1984."
"And, about 50 years of work waiting to be done on them!"
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