Ken Streeter posted:
>I'm considering a TR6 for sale in the Boston area.
several lines deleted...
>Frame seems ok, but a big metal plate has been bolted onto
>the center underside of the frame. Body shows no sign of damage
>severe enough to damage that part of the frame (essentially no rust
>on frame.)
I'd be very curious as to why the big metal plate? What does the
owner say about it?
>Mechanically, the car seems mostly sound. Steering response is
More lines deleted, but mention of slipping clutch, missing
interior door handle and slipping window crank, other items
appear and work well.
The door handle is a common item that breaks off with time and use.
Replacement handles run about $6. The slipping window mechanism
may be repairable, but a new or good used "window winding mechanism"
is probably the best bet. If the window can still be worked up and
down (and stay up when you want it up) this is an item that could
be deffered for later replacement. To keep the mechanism from
getting worse, it's best to "help" the window up by hand while
winding the handle. Admittedly, that's not something one can do
easily unless your stopped.
>My real question, whether or not I chose to "invest" (hah!) in this
>british iron, is what is probably wrong with the clutch to make it
>slip severely. Is it possible that just the clutch disc is worn, or
>is it more likely something with the pressure plate? In either
>case, replacing these would seem to be a semi-major operation. I
>would guess these would cost on the order of $500 - $750 to have
>fixed professionally? (I'm afraid I haven't the equipment to do
>this myself.)
You are in the range of a "professionally replaced clutch". Parts
on the other hand, if you did the job yourself can be had for $100
to $125 for everything (Clutch disk, pressure plate & throwout
bearing). To undertake a job like this, yourself or having someone else
do it and not replace all three of these componenets is false
economy, and I've yet to meet anyone that can easily tell if
a slipping clutch is the single fault of the disk or pressure plate
alone. The tools needed to do the job yourself consist of a
decent set of wrenches and a good socket set. You could purchase
these new at Sears for $100 or so. The work effort can be done
in a day if you are familiar with the work. In the case of a
first time effort, I'd set aside a weekend. Oh yes, and of course,
you'd need a factory/Bentley or Haynes manual for the TR-6. At
the point of removal (and reinstallation) of the transmission,
two sets of hands are really required, although it can be done
alone. The only "special" tool required is a clutch disk centering
tool used to hold the new disk in place while the pressure plate
is being bolted up to the flywheel. If the disk isn't properly
centered, it becomes impossible to get the transmission to mate
with the disk and the pilot bushing.
>Well, this '71 TR6 (CC63556) is being sold for $2700/bo. The owner
>is in no hurry to sell it, and was amazingly honest in pointing out
>every little thing that was wrong with the car (even pointing out a
>few problems I missed in my once-over.) Opinions? (As if I have to
>ask! :-)
bargain, but not overpriced either. Before buying, I'd try and
get a second opinion on the frame and the "plate" bolted to it.
Costs and grief associated with frame work will make a clutch
replacement look like a minor item.
Bill Sohl
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