One problem here with trying to use sealant goo on a shock, is that the oil
comes out under high pressure. This probably requires a decent solid material
type seal. A piece of the rubberish-paper gasket material under the plate
might do better, possibly useing the blue stuff to finish up. I assume the blue
goo is a silicone RTV type stuff. Some comments on silicone for gaskets:
-All surfaces must be clean and devoid of oils.
-In order to get a good seal, apply the sealant, and assemble the parts,
leaving a small gap full of sealant, and do not torque together yet. Let
the sealant cure completly, preferably overnight, *then* finish tightnening.
This will keep the sealant from being squeezed out the edges, and give a
thicker bead of "rubber" to compress, making a better seal.
-A very thin gap may be torqued sooner, as long as it stays dry until it sets.
-If the seal will be around gasoline, make darn sure it is completly cured
first- gas disolves uncured RTV real quick.
-Use the RTV to supplement a "real" gasket when possible- it is prone to more
distortation when used alone. This can be a real problem if there is a lot
of force or vibration on the gasket area. ie- I attempted to seal the (cast
iron) pan of my lawn tractor to the block with RTV alone. It was clean,
and cured and everything. The engine is mounted to the frame by the pan-
the vibration soon loosened the sealant, resulting in rapid loss of oil...
Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone sealants are fantastic goos, but
can't do everything. (Super glues can be useful for probelm seals sometines
too. :-) )
________
/___ _ \ Roger Garnett (garnett@tcgould.TN.CORNELL.EDU)
/| || \ \ Agricultural Economics | The All New:
| |___|| _ | 3 Warren Hall | South Lansing Centre For
| | \ | | | Cornell University | Wayward Sports Cars
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