check all the connections then check them again, pay particular attention to
the connections that go thru the firewall bulkhead for the amp gauge ( big red
and black wires) , ALL charge go thru them so if the have been hot, they start
to corrode, they will continue to get worse and eventually the car will not
have any power
regulators are cheap and easy so you may want to change it anyways. it should
have been changed when you did the alternator.
On 10/10/2007 10:56:06 PM, Greg Schroeder (gschroeder@comcast.net) wrote:
> I had replaced the alternator a couple of years ago. If the battery is
> low
> and I can start the car or have to jump the car the alternator would
> normally
> be able to keep the car running. In my case it seems that it does not
> provide
> enought power to keep the car running and charge the battery. After a
> while
> of idling the car will stop no power. When I test the alternator it is
> producing more than enough voltage. At the battery the voltage may not
> increase until the battery gets a little charge and the idle is higher
> than
> normal. It seems like the individual components are working correctly,
> but
> not working well together. I do not believe it is a voltage regulater
> issue, but it could be. I have had the battery tested and it was OK. I do
> not
> believe a higher voltage alternator would make a difference since it test
> out
> OK. I still have a battery drain that is the main cause of having this
> problem. It seems I have to keep my battery charger connected since I
> will
> most likely have to plug it in again to charge the battery. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Greg 0036
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