At 10:32 PM 6/12/2004 -0400, Gary Della'Zanna wrote:
>Has anyone had to deal with a delayed door opening? My driver side works
>fine. I have to hold the button for 15 seconds to open my passenger door.
>
>There is a significant drop in voltage across the switch, getting to the
>selenoid. My driver side has 11-12 volts, the passenger side only has 7
>volts.
>
>The door opens fine if I put 12 volts to the selenoid.
>
>Any ideas?
Gary,
Sounds like Tag might be right, either a bad switch or a very dirty
one. But it could be a dirty connection at one of the wires at the
switch or at the dist. panel connection.
Try measuring the voltage at the input to the switch. Is it 12V.
Then go to the outputs (both up and down). When you close the switch
does the voltage on the output of the switch go to 12V on both contacts
or on the one? If both outputs are 12V then the problem is either in
the wire going from the switch to the air dist. panel, or at the connector
at the air panel.
Try spraying some tuner cleaner (Radio Shack sell it) into the switch and
working the switch. See if the voltage come up. You can also pull each
wire from the switch and dip the connector in phosophoric acid. It will
clean off any corrosion. You might have a bad crimp connection on one
of the wires. I suggest that you dip each wire in the acid, then clean
them by dipping in some water and drying with a rag and then soldering
them. If you solder them I don't recommend using a 100/150W gun, use a
pencil with about a 40W tip, unless you have a good constant temp soldering
station.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1)
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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