Seth,
A word of caution about urethane bushings, not that graphite impregnated
are really much better. This is a very rudimentary suspension and chassis
and I actually believe rubber will be a little more forgiving if any degree
of comfort or give is desired. Although solid, the frame is not new metal,
and putting through excess fatigue may not be wise. You can gain so much
more better tires. If you are that serious, then certain Yokohamas,
hard-to-find Fuldas, and even some Mich will get you there much better.
Speaking of comfort, squeak, squeak, squeak, if you stick to using
urethane then invest in a tube of NEOSYNTHETIC watercraft grease. This
stuff is the most impervious, tenacious, and expensive stuff around, but
there is no comparison with other synthetics. You can put a torch on it, a
hose on it, or whatever, it won't budge. I've never seen anything else like
it and I've been on the synthetic bandwagon since the beginning. If you get
it on your hands, be prepared for lots of cleaning.
stephan #2821
----- Original Message -----
From: "Seth" <sbunin@comcast.net>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: Front suspension
> The steering has already been replaced (idler, tie rods, pitman). I've
been looking around, and
> I think I'm going to use eurethane bushings. I can't find anyone who has
graphite for
> the AMC suspension and there's no way I'm going to throw rubber in there.
>
>
> Seth
> #1544
>
>
> On 8/31/2002 at 2:39 PM Jim & Ginny Kelliher wrote:
>
> >Your list looks pretty complete to me. The idler arm should be considered
> >too.
> >The rear shackle bushings are not hard to do, and if they look like mine,
> >they probably need replacing.
> >When Rebuilt my suspension on a non B car, I purchased complete upper and
> >lower control arms. I think it is much easier than messing with ball
joints
> >and pressed bushings.
> >I was wondering are you going with OEM rubber, polygraphite or
> >milodyne(sp?).
> >LOL
> >Jim
> >1191
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