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Re: door adjustment

To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: door adjustment
From: "Mitwelt" <mitwelt@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:18:58 -0400
    One thing that is often over looked is the latch works in two stages.
Often, adjusting the latch so both stages complete is tricky but it provides
MUCH more safety!  Weather-stripping is important.  I spent some days in
TT's shop and helped with the doors.  It is not a real simple task
sometimes. Sometimes, the door has to be adjusted out further at the top to
allow it to snap closed at the bottom.  After watching Terry struggle,
there's no shame in it being a challenge for the rest of us.  It is a
balance of elec power to a good solenoid(otherwise it will close well, but
won't open well), the door adj., the striker adj., latch adj., proper seal
installation, and some luck, etc..

Hope this helps.  No matter what, some light at bottom or front of jamb is
not uncommon since the seal design was compromised so that you wouldn't tear
it up getting in and out of the car, and the cages of earlier vehicles
suffered severely from washout.  Finally, many cars were fitted improperly
during manufacture (the doors should go on FIRST, before the body) making
alignment tough.

stephan #2821
----- Original Message -----
From: "High Tech Coatings" <htc@mnsi.com>
To: "bricklin" <bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: door adjustment


> > Anyone know how the door adjustment works, I need to get the door to
close
> > tighter  by the latch. While driving the car, you can see light coming
in
> by
> > the bottom of the door and alot of air coming in. The door lines up on
the
> > body pretty good now.
>  If the doors fits good it does not need adjustment it needs the weather
> strip replaced with the proper stuff. many people have tried many
different
> low cost fixes for weather strip and most aren't worth the price of the
glue
> to stick it on. go to one of the regular Bricklin suppliers, like bob or
> terry, the stuff they sell isn't cheap but it works.
>  If the door sticks out on the bottom then the striker on the sill plate
> needs to be moved in. Loosen the two bots that hold it on and move it in a
> bit at a time. If you go too far the door will either not latch or if it
> does it won't release due to the pressure. you may actually have to move
it
> out as it may already be in too far and not allowing the door to fully
> latch.

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