At 03:46 PM 1/8/00 EST, Dan Green, VIN #946, wrote:
>Dear John,
> I enjoy your articles in the Brickline - keep up the good work.
Thanks Dan, but since I started doing the layout, editing, and publishing
of the mag. I haven't had much time to write too many articles. I wish
I could do more.
> I have a problem with my Bricklin #946. I need to disassemble my
>steering column to fix my ignition key switch. Do you know how to remove
the
>steering wheel adaptor hub (part #9.005 in the Bricklin parts catalog)???
I
>got the steering wheel and horn button off, and removed the obvious bolt in
>the very center, but the bloody thing won't come off. Larry at JT systems
>said to hold the adaptor between my knees while pounding the center screw
>with a hammer... still no luck. Any suggestions??
(Note: Most of us thing and call the lock that the ignition key goes into
the ignition switch. This used to be the case before about 1970. When
they went to the locking steering columns, the key mearly unlocks the
steering column, and actuates the remote ignition switch. Did you catch the
word remote? The actual ignition switch is located on the steering column
about 1/2 way down the steering column. So you can identify the ignition
switch from the other electrical connectors down on the column, there is a
metal rod that goes into the side of the ign. switch, and it is held to the
column by 4 bolts. Many people think that they have a problem with the
key lock and their problem is actually a bad ignition switch.)
If you really have a problem with the ign. key cylinder lock you will have
to disassemble the steering column.
Yup, and I don't recommend beating on the end of the steering shaft as you
will bugger the threads and then you're in deep kimshi.
You need a smallish puller. The way I did it, was to put the steering wheel
on the hub, and put all the bolts in the steering wheel. Besure the nut is
on the main shaft, so it is about even with the end of the shaft. This
will give you between 1/8" & 1/4" play. But the center pin of the puller
on the
steering shaft, and the 3 jaws around the lip of the steering at the hub.
As you tighten the puller, the hub will break loose. It shouldn't take too
much effort with a wrench on the puller to loosen the hub. If you really
have to strain with the wrench, you probably have the hub nut too tight.
Back it off some and try again.
BEFORE YOU GO ANY TURTHER - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL!!!
Once that is off, the fun begins. You WILL need at least 1 helper. You
have to remove the column locking ring. To do this, get your helpers to
press down very hard on the locking ring to releive the pressure on the
clip ring, and pry it up out of its grove. I used several small
screwdrivers to work the clip ring up. Becareful not to loose it, but it's
NOT the usual C clip so you can't slide it back out of the grove. You have
to walk it up the shaft.
When the C clip is removed the locking ring and plastic horn assembly can
be lifted off. Next you will have to pull the plastic turn signal switch.
Start by unscrewing the emergency flasher knob from its shaft. Then there
are 3 phillips head screws holding the turn signal switch in place and one
holding the turn signal lever to the switch. There is a thin long
electrical plug about 4" to 5" long about 1/2 way down the column.
Disconnect the plug
from this connector, and pry this plug off the bracket that holds it to the
column. This will give you the necessary slack to lift the turn signal
switch up and out of its housing.
You will have to remove the "ignition on buzzer switch" from the housing.
If you look down you will see 2 metal strips about 1/8" wide and about 1"
long. Insert the ign. key in the lock and turn the switch to on and lift
the switch out by carefully pulling on the plastic sides with a pair of
needle nose pliers. Be very careful, there is another very small metal
spring like thing in that hole. You will have to remove it also.
You are now down to the ign. key locking cylinder. Turn the key to the
"off" postion. (If there is a position back past off you might need to
try that position.) If you follow an imaginary line along the length of
the key to the inside of the housing you will see a very thin slit (about
1/8" wide by 1" long.) Insert a very small screwdriver into this slot and
push the cylinder locking tab down and pull outward on the lock cylinder.
It may take some giggling of the key and the lock cylinder to get it to
come out.
>By the way, I like the idea in the air door system of using the in-line
>dryer and lubricator from Grainger. Do you happen to have the catalog
>numbers at Grainger??
Unfortunately I don't Dan. I thought I did, but I can't find it. I'll
check with some of my friends and see if they do. Maybe someone will
respond from this post.
Hope this helps.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
Editor/Publisher The Brickline
Quarterly Magazine of Bricklin International
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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