At 10:08 AM 12/22/98 -0500, Phil Martin wrote:
>.....the project has gone from the planned restoration to a pretty serious
>modification, so as it turns out, most of the tech info about the Bricklin
>isn't useful to me. But I do like to be on the mailing list, see how people
>are making out with their cars, and answer a question now and then when I
>can.
Phil,
There is nothing wrong with hot rodders and customizers and don't be
afraid to let you candle shine! The more I'm around true hot rodders the
more respect and appreciation I have for them.
If you have a "Good/sound" car to start with, a restoration is a piece
of cake. While I've restored several my 65 Morgan included, I must admit
that I bit off a little more than I'd have liked to chew with my Brick. Not
because of the car, but because of THIS car. I've never had to cut open a
chassis before, I've never had to fabricate sheet metal parts before. All
of which is common practice to the TRUE hot rodder. I had to save for 2
years to afford my MIG welder, and boy has it paid for itself on this one!!!!
For those of you that own a Brick, after you finish reading this, go take
a quick look at what I'm about to talk about.
As many of you know, I'm in (and have been) in the process of replacing
my sill plates. These are the large metal Us that go from the rear of the
front wheel to the front of the rear wheels and form the main body mounts.
In each of the "A" pillars (the body/chassis member where the door hinges
are on most cars) and the "B" pillars (the where the door closes to on most
cars) is a mounting bolt to hold the body on the chassis. Both of the front
mounting pads on the sill plates were completely rusted out. So I had to
cut the sills and other rusted sheet metal out and replace it. I managed to
cut the pass. side sill plage out last year and salvage enough to make a
drawing and have new ones fabricated.
To make a long story short, I had to cut the bottom 2 inches off the "A"
pillar on the drivers side due to rot. I took what was left of this part
to my dad's this weekend. In about 2 hrs, he made a patch panel to replace
what I cut out. I was sooooo impressed. It's beautiful!!! I couldn't
believe it. He made it seem so simple. Of course the correct equipment
(mostly a couple of C clamps and a hammer) helped a lot.
So now if you go out and open your driver door, look at where the A pillar
comes down and meets the sill plate. With your finger, draw a line across
the A pillar about 2 inches above the sill plate. Everything below that
line down to the Scuff plate is what my dad made with only 2 pieces of sheet
metal.
The point to all of this, while not everyone is going to have to do this
to their cars and there is piece of mind knowing that it has and can be done.
For those of you that have bothered reading all of the, let me now give
you a couple of "TECH TIPS":
1. I suggest that you remove the inter panels that cover the access holes
to both the A and B pillar mounting bolts. Working on one bolt at a
time, spray in some WD40 and very carefully try to loosen the body
mounting bolts. If it comes out, GREAT!!! I suggest that you put
some anti-seize on the bolt and put it back in. Repeat for the other
3 bolts. If they don't want to come, DONT force them. But if you
ever restore your car, you are probably in for some interesting work
in that area.
2. A friend was over the other night and showed me some stuff that 3M
puts out, Rust Fighter - Internal Panel coating Part # 08892 approx.
$10 per can. It sprays as a liquid then sets to a slightly rubbery
form. Spray this stuff in the A and B pillar areas to seal the seams
where the pillars join the sill plate. (Note: This can also be used
on any other car to seal the bottom inside of the doors and the rear
quarter panels to the inner fender panels.
>....Once this project is done, I'd definitely like to contribute an
>article or two to the Brickline about my experiences, but I certainly
>wouldn't hesitate to answer questions by email ....or put stuff up on a
>freely-available website.
Phil, why wait. There is a fellow in Idaho that is making a "hill climb"
Brick complete with leg pipes etc. I'm sure people would be interested
in what you've learned in having you chassis made, etc.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi
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