What specifically did you disagree with? I think you have simply restated
what I said. Learn how to do it right. There is no question that the
advice apparently given was dangerously ignorant - but I don't think that
this a priori means that recipients of bad advice are incapable of learning
the correct procedure and must resign themselves to forever hiring
"professional" mechanics. He obviously had enough "common sense" to seek
further advice. I think this speaks well of his potential. As a
mechanical engineer with a lifetime of automotive experience perhaps I
overestimate the average persons capability to perform mechanical
maintenance but, although it is potentially hazardous, replacing a ball
joint isn't technically demanding. My experience with the so called
"professional" mechanics is that they perform work incorrectly with an
unacceptable frequency - which is the reason I still do my own work even
though the day when money was an issue are long past. Again, as I stated
in my posting, one must learn the correct procedures and have the correct
tools before embarking on any maintenance activity - but lets avoid the
elitist attitude that assumes others can not do what we easily can.
Andrew
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From: (Thomas Benvie)
To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Ball Joint Replacement
Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 8:46AM
>However, lets not forget that every one of us who has done this many times
>has had to ask "how" the first time! Obviously, the procedure is
perfectly
>safe when proper techniques and equipment are used and no special skills
are
>required - just the knowledge of how to go about it correctly. That
>information is readily available via numerous repair manuals and for those
>possessed of some mechanical skill and general experience in automotive
>mechanics replacement of ball joints and any other component on the
Bricklin
>is straightforward. Although cautionary warnings are essential lets not
>exaggerate the difficulties here and discourage anyone from learning. The
>bottom line is if you don't know how to do it right, learn first before
>attempting the procedure. This is good advice for any procedure - just
more
>necessary when potential catastrophic events can result from improper work
-
>this applies to many automotive system including brakes, tires, drivetrain,
>etc. which DIY'ers work on routinely.
Couldn't disagree more. There is a time and a place for the Do-It-Yourself
mechanics, usually starting with tire changes and battery replacement, on
to basic plug replcement, tune-ups, etc. Then they are shown how to do
other repairs, and hopefully have the tools to do it. No offense to the
original post, but a question on how to remove tie rods even after
hammering them told me he was a novice who didn't know some basic front end
tools (and again, no offense as I was there once myself, as was every other
mechanic). So, being a novice, the ball joint replacement with a loaded
spring is definately not something he should try to do himself. Assist
someone with the proper tools, sure, but by himself, or with someone else
with limited skills, no. No exaggeration of the danger, either. The
loaded spring could seriously maim you. Add to this some poor advice given
such as C-Clamps, Chains, and torches-This is better done by those who know
how and have the proper equipment. (and some of these suggestions don't
even work on AMC type upper control arm springs).
Yes, the ball joint replacement is fairly strightforward, and actually
easier than most cars. And once the ball joint was separated from the
steering components, there is still the matter of removing the 4 rivets
that hold the originals in place-should have more than a simple hammer and
chisel to get them off easily (best way is to drill a hole about 1/4" down
through the head-much easier than hammering all day). And I might be
mixing up the 69 prior AMC front end with the 70 up one here, but to get
the nut off the lower ball joint you have to remove the caliper and rotor
to get to the bolts to remove the steering arm-which may be rusted in place
and use of air tools would be one of the only ways to get it off. You
would also be better off with a good floor jack to put it back together as
well.
With the hundreds of students I have had in the past, you can never stress
safety enough. People should know their limitations, then work from there.
This does not mean stop when you reach your limits, but to be fully aware
of the results of the next step. There is more to being a mechanic than
the ability to remove and replace parts. The hardest thing to teach is the
mechanical common sense needed to make repairs-if I remove this, what
happens next? If I don't take this off, how does it effect the next part?
What does this thing do, and why is it needed? etc. etc.
And just how much would be saved doing this himself? Is it worth the risk?
Thomas M. Benvie
5 Sachem Rock Ave.
East Bridgewater, MA 02333
(508) 378-1423
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