>Hey all,
>Its been a while since my hydraulic doors worked. Now that the electrical
is
>up and running, I need to know how to bleed the system and get all the air
>pockets out. When I first got my car, the hydraulic pump would make a
>growling sound and I assumed it was the normal noise it made. Now it can
pump
>the fluid fine, but doesnt make the noise anymore. Is that because i have
too
>many air pockets?
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I think it's because you don't have air pockets. I imagine the 'growling'
was caused by pump cavitation.
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My dad and I tried a whole bunch of ways to bleed the
>system by making the cylinder suck fluid into the system, shutting the
valve I
>put at the bottom of the cylinder, and closing the door and everything else
we
>could think of.
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I'm confused. The pump works fine, but the doors don't move? Why did you add
a valve at the bottom of the cylinder? If the pump works and the doors
don't, then the cylinder's internal sealed is blown and the cylinder will
have to be replaced.
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>
>Since I do not have the money for the air doors, I was wondering if I could
>upgrade in stages. For example, I could buy the compressor and the vacuum
>pump and set up the switches to activate the air compressor when pressing
the
>UP button and suck air out of the cylinder to lower the door with the DOWN
>button. I realize this setup may be harder on the equipment and slower,
but I
>cannot afford to buy the air tank and the control unit right now,
considering
>that I need two door brackets and a pair of new cylinders already.
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I'm not sure I followed all that, but don't connect an unregulated air
compressor directly to the cylinders unless you want to recreate a rocket
launch. :^)) I wouldn't try any hybred air/hydraulic combo either.
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>
>The solenoid inside the door has a wire (now disconnected) that could have
>easily caused a dead short. It was that way when I bought the car. its
the
>wire that goes out of the door under the roof T section. I fear I will
need
>to remove the door skins.
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The only wire going to the door is an orange power wire (+) to the door
latch solenoid. If it's disconnected, what latches the door shut? Why would
you have to remove door skins? The wire is accessable when the two door
panels and roof panel is removed.
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>If i have to do that, I might as well install an easier window crank setup
so
>I can add a JC Whitney Power Window kit while I am at it. Any
recommendations
>on a make and model that has the eaiser crank would be great =)
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The window mechanism is a Bricklin design. Terry T. does have an upgrade
though. I found that with a little bending and tweaking with the glass
removed and then carefully aligning the glass while in the door prior to
bonding helped a lot. I wasn't aware their was a PW kit that would fit or
work in the door space. I would definitely discuss this with Terry T. before
trying this. The mechanism is pretty flimsy.
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>
>I do not have the latches on my doors so I wont have to crawl in through
the
>rear hatch.
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I hope you're not driving it this way.
GM
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