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On Tuesday, December 09, 1997 8:44 PM, Godly Krew [SMTP:GodlyKrew@aol.com]
wrote:
> Boy! Am I lucky! Or should I say blessed?
> maybe stupid is a better term for what ALMOST happened to VIN 1758 Yesterday
>
I'd say the latter.
> I parked my Brick and decided to use the portable 12 volt air compressor i
> had
> bought to tide me over until i get the air door kit. The compressor was
> modified by me so I could wire it directly to my 800 amp battery, since
> Bricks
> lack a cigarette lighter. I also swapped out the on/off switch for a
> momentary contact pushbutton.
>
> If only i would have known ahead of time that ALL metal parts on a car are
> grounded!!!!!!
> :
> :
> >From now on I will be much more careful when dealing with electrical!!!
All metal parts that can trace a circuit to the frame, that is. That's a basic
precept to automotive electronics. Might I suggest you leave the electrical
work to professionals; safer for you and the car.
> Anybody know where I can get a 12 volt DC current circuit breaker to hook up
> to the battery?
Look in the yellow pages under "Automobile Electric Service". I found a great
shop in my area that rebuilds alternators, traces electrical problems, etc.
They can install a big current breaker that can be installed at the battery.
This is commonly done in high-end car audio installation shops, also.
> I see there is a place in the fuse panel that would have
> prevented this disaster....I didn't know it was missing! Something must have
> got rigged before I bought it
No. Nothing would have prevented it. Not if you wired the compressor straight
to the battery; you weren't going through the fuse panel.
>....isn't the car suposed to not work if the fuse
> marked "batt" is missing?
My car is in storage so I can't check on it. If the slot marked "batt" has
contacts in it, it's a place for an unswitched accessory fuse. Unswitched means
it has current all the time, even without the key turned to "on". This is where
you would wire an aftermarket accessory that needed constant 12V - like a
cigarette lighter! And of course, the proper rated fuse would go there!
> I dont know what type of fuse to get for it...there are other things missing
> in the fuse panel that are not fuses and I have no idea what they are... can
> anybody send me a list of parts to get so I can replace all the items in the
> fuse panel?
Again, I can't look at mine, but if everything is working on your car
(flashers, dome light, radio and clock, rear window defroster, etc.) then leave
the fuse box alone. Did you ever here the phrase "Don't fix what's not broken"?
> Also, I need to know which bolts to remove under the hood to gain access the
> the back of the guages. I removed the screws and the Tach and Speedometer
> are
> apparently attached by a bolt under the hood... Somebody changed the guage
> setting to 6 or four cylinders which makes my speedometer read too high and
> my
> odometer move too quickly. I need to get behind the guages so i can fix the
> problem.
>
There is no bolts. What you are probably haven't done is disconnect the Speedo
cable from either under the car or if you can get your fingers behind the gauge
(if the cable is long enough). Mine was pretty short so I disconnected it at
the transmission. After that, there is still a substantial wiring harness back
there but you should be able to GENTLY pull the Instrument cluster out far
enough to disconnect the harness. The ammeter has a 2-wire connector and I seem
to remember two other Molex-type multi-wire connectors. The Web Site has a
great article on removing the Inst. cluster and the entire dash
http://Bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/BI/TechCentral/TCArticle005.htm
As far as the Speedo being off, this is an idiosyncrasy of the Bricklin. At
60mph mine reads about 72.
>
> The key for the door is labeled "chicago lock company". are they still
> around?
> I know somebody still makes keys and locks like this because I see them in
> laundromats and vending machines all the time. I want to buy a set of two
> locks that will match my current key. Any ideas?
It's almost always impossible to buy keys that match a lock cylinder.
Especially when there is no serial numbers on the cylinder. You can get a new
cylinder with new keys quite easily. I went to an auto parts store and asked
for a set from a third generation Corvette. The Vette had a fender mounted
round key cylinder for the alarm.
> Lastly I do not want to pay $275 for the new center console!! anybody have a
> used one in good shape? Send me an email if ya do =)
See any of the Bricklin parts dealers on the Web Site.
Ron Auger
(snail-mail) Olsy North America Staff Software Engineer
185 Plains Road Suite 302W 203-882-4373 (desk)
Milford, CT 06460 203-783-1520 (fax)
(E-mail) ron.auger@olsy-na.com 800-759-8888 (bpr) pin#1153000
(C-mail) Ron Auger CMLA
(V-mail) 800-338-0775 "Eschew Obfuscation"
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