Hey gang, here's another one for you to try and figure out. I hate these
questions that I can't answer. It would really help if my car were
drivable!!!!
At 11:56 PM 8/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
> I don't drive the Bricklin as much as I'd like, primarily because
> I have a very noticable "POP" from the steering (and felt in the
> steering wheel when it happens) when I turn the wheel all the way to
> one side (either side). I think it is from either the suspension or the
> steering linkages.
>
> The steering feels fine before the pop, and if the steering is cramped
> to an extreme (as if getting out of a parking space) that is when the POP
> happens. Feels as though something snapped or broke... Sooo, gingerly
> I'll turn the steering wheel and... everythings fine... until next time.
> Usually the next time the car is out, NOT the next time the wheel is
> turned to an extreme...(Hmmm)
>
> I'd feel better if I could reproduce the problem, but that's half the
> problem, too. One of these times I'll find out the hard way what seems
> to be binding or shifting. Since the car is 22 years old, (Yikes !!! time
> really flies, don't it?)
John, My first quess might be something to do with the power steering
pump bypassing fluid since you have the steering locked at one end. Air
conditioners and air compressors have a "Fart" valve that will release
the built up pressure when the unit shuts off. It might be something like
that.
It's possible that some of the bushings are shot, but I don't think this
would cause the sound/feeling you are describing. The tie rod could
possibly be binding on something but again, I'd expect it to be quite
repeatable.
> I would like to change most, if not all of the front "rubber" on the
> suspension parts. Bushings and such... and possibly steering linkages if
> need be.
>
> Now, Here's that nasty Question (almost). I see from BI and your web
> page the parts list for the front suspension... (OK, now the question...)
> Any ideas or suggestions on where to begin on replacing parts that would
> be relavent to the symptoms I've briefly described above?
John, if you are going to do it, don't do it half way. Replace everything,
especially if you are going to do the work. If a "pro" is going to do
it, he can make some judgement calls about some of the parts. The upper
control arm bushings, the Coil spring/shock seat bushing, the lower control
arm bushings, both upper and lower ball joints, strut rod bushings, tie rod
ends, sway bar bushings both on the chassis and at the ends, the idler arm,
and the shocks. Total cost for parts should be under $550. Shop around
your local auto parts stores and compare prices. I found a wide range in
prices for the ball joints $13 - $20 for one and $20 - $40 for the other,
same goes for tie rod ends. I priced the high side for the estimate.
While I don't think this is the cause of the problem, be sure to check
where the shock tower is welded to the chassis very carefully. On my car,
one of the sides had rusted pretty badly, so I made a reinforcement plate
and welded it to the shock tower and the chassis.
Another problem is that the shock towers, aren't strong enough. There
is a modification to put reinforcement bars on them to stiffen them
up and maintain the alignment with respect to each other. This is NOT
that critical unless you are really pushing you car hard through some
corners, like racing it.
The biggest problem in doing anything with the upper control arms is
removing and replacing the springs. You can remove them using an external
spring compressor. However, to replace them, you will need an internal
spring compressor and you will have to modify it slightly. I've written
an article about that, but it hasn't been published yet. When you are
ready to do the job, let me know and I'll tell you more about it.
Hope this helps some.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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