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Re: power drills and their "impact"

To: rlipton@prev.org, ba-autox@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: power drills and their "impact"
From: Sethracer@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 11:11:53 EDT
In a message dated 10/5/2005 7:39:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,  
rlipton@prev.org writes:

Hi  all,

what is a good drill to get for lugs when changing tires?   What do
people use, how much money, where to get?  Are there  special
attachments, things I need to consider when getting one?  

thanks much,

Rob



Rob - You will have a choice to make based on two factors. One - How much  
you want to spend and Two - Are you going to torque the lug nuts tight with a  
torque wrench, or rely on a mechanical tightening, like an impact wrench. 
People  do either. If you want to rely on an impact wrench, you will have to 
spend 
well  over $100 for an adequate one. The cheapies really don't do the job - 
that is  they won't break loose the nuts and they don't provide adequate torque 
when  tightening. I suggest using a 1/2" ratcheting click-type torque wrench. 
It can  be used for tightening the nuts and, in a pinch for loosening the nuts 
for  removal. For the actual spinning on and off of the nuts, I have used a 
Black  & Decker 12 volt cordless drill. It will not break the nuts loose. I  
normally use an X-wrench for that. I have found that anything with more voltage 
 
than the 12 volt drills can produce too much torque. Now, why is that a bad  
thing?  Most of the drills have an adjustable torque limited -a declutching  
feature for when the nut hits bottom. When you run the nuts down, you will be  
holding the drill in one hand. If the adjuster is set for full torque, like 
for  actual drilling of holes, when the nut hits bottom and stops, the drill 
will  kick back. This can give your wrist a good (pardon the expression) 
wrenching.  Trust me - it will eventually happen. The 12 volt has plenty of 
power to 
spin  the nuts on and off. The drills are often available in kits with a spare  
battery, along with the charger. They usually have a keyed or keyless chuck 
and  can be used as a regular drill during the "off-season" (A term unknown to 
San  Francisco area autocrossers). The "tool" that fits in the chuck and  
provides the 3/8" square or 1/2" square drive for your socket is available at  
most hardware stores or at Harbor Freight Tools. (For me, Harbor Freight is as  
dangerous a place as Fry's Electronics)  If you want to spend more  money, you 
can buy a 3/8" drive or (for even more money) a 1/2" drive cordless  impact 
wrench. Good ones can be more than $200. (Snap-on, Makita, etc.) I have  used a 
9.6 Volt B&D cordless drill for many years. It has worked fine.  Last year I 
bought a 3/8" drive cordless impact by Nikota ("Nikota" is  Taiwanese for "now 
out of business") at a Kragen store. It works fine but cannot  bust loose a 
torqued lug nut, at least on the cars I operate. It is absolutely  the easiest 
tool for tearing apart stuff like suspensions and things. A can  of Kroil and 
this wrench - no old car is safe! In summary, you can start  off by buying a 
3/8" cordless drill - one with an adjustable clutch - and a 1/2"  torque 
Wrench. 
Add an adapter for the drill to drive a 1/2" socket and the  appropriate deep 
socket and you are in business. Later on, you can go to the  impact wrench if 
you are so inclined. 






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