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Re: Strut Vice?

To: <autox@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Strut Vice?
From: <ralph@NARS.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 15:46:15 -0800 (PST)
> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 00:26:43 -0600
> From: "Eric Linnhoff" <knuckledragger@kcweb.net>
> Subject: RE: Strut Vise?
> - -----Original Message-----
>     I'd like to have a setup at home for changing out shocks/etc. I'm
>     looking for an inexpensive solution for a Strut Vise.
>     I've done an McPherson strut change in the past without a vise and
> hurt myself, so I'm trying to do it right this time (within reason).
> ========================================================
> What exactly are you trying to do?  Install your old springs onto new
> shocks/struts?
>
> Here's the tools I use when I did this twice each year with my OE
> shocks. Less than $100 total cash layout for tools assuming you already
> have basic hand tools.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43753

  WOW, mine, (OTC Brand) was a LITTLE bit more expensive...like 5x!  but
  thats still a lot less than the Perfect Tool  that I used a Reitmeir's
  shop once upon a time - air powered!   Brrrt spring compressed! Sssssss
  spring uncompressed  - job done.  One of those will set you back a
  grand though, so If yer not doing it every day....
> (which beats the proverbial pants off of these
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3980)

These should be banned.

> and
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45252
> to loosen/tighten the top nuts.

Yup, this VERY helpful.

>
> My procedure went as follows.
>
> Loosen sway bar frame brackets to reduce the tension.
> Remove strut (with spring) from car.  This normally takes at least one
> beer per strut.  I can have one out of my car in under 20 minutes.
>
> To disassemble the strut do the following:
> Lay strut on garage floor.
> Step foot onto the side of the coil spring, holding it in place. Drink
> a little more beer, 'cuz it's about to get entertaining.
> Put impact gun onto top nut.
> Burp gun one good time, in reverse obviously.
> The top nut stays in the impact socket and the rest of the strut shoots
> a few feet across the floor the other way (old grocery sacks filled
> with old newspapers make good wall cushions) while the spring stays
> under your foot. (And please don't tell me you're worried about
> scratching your old struts as they slide across the floor.  They're
> freaking suspension parts and as such get pelted with rocks, sand, salt
> and water every day of their life.)

uh, it's not the shock I'm worried about.  It's the spring that decides
to take off from underfoot (making you fall), and bounds it's way over to
that nice quarterpanel on the car that worries me.  On some cars, like
the 914 I could compress the spring by hand (did it in the protest area
in Salina  once) but some of those springs have some real tension in
them.  I would highly recommend using that nice spring compressor you got
to take 'em off, then it's all ready compressed the right amount to put
it on the new strut.   some thing about uncontrolled energy releases
really bugs me.   That's another reason I don't mount tractor tires
either.
>
> Wash spring in kitchen sink with dish soap to remove crud.  (This is an
> optional step.)
> Then use the spring compressor listed above to compress the spring
> using hand tools only.
> Install spring onto new strut on living room table while watching any
> show that is car related.
> Here you have some options.  On adjustable struts the cardinal sin is
> to use an impact gun to install the top nut.  "Spinning the guts" is
> not good for adjustable shocks and foot valves can and do come
> unscrewed, and loose parts inside the shock are not a good thing.  What
> I prefer to do is the 2nd most cardinal sin of shocks.  I put a couple
> pair of Vise-grips ('cuz one pair just ain't enough) onto the very top
> of the shaft to hold it still while I use more hand tools to tighten
> the top nut down.  (Don't worry.  Any damage to the shaft should be
> cosmetic only as they are usually very hard chromed metal and the very
> top 1" or so of the shaft should never enter the top seal of the shock,
> which could cause a leak.)

Interesting.  I've never needed to use the Vise-Grip method.  Many struts
have flats or hex heads at the top of the shaft. and the torque spec for
that nut is usually less than a knuckle-dragger's worth.  :-) I haven't
had one loosen up on me, but I always use some kind of locking nuts.
> If however you're installing run-of-the-mill OE style non-adjustable
> shocks, then just burp the impact gun once to tighten the top nut down.
<snip>

FWIW YMMV etc.

-RALPH-
Ralph Elder






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