Eric Linnhoff wrote:
>I've always used a small amount of anti-seize on the studs and each year
>cleaned off the old crud with brake cleaner and then reapplied a little
>fresh anti-seize. I hand torque each wheel with a torque wrench and set
>them to 95 ft/lbs, splitting the difference between the factory service
>manuals spec of 90-100 ft/lbs. I have used several sets of lug nuts over
>the years but never even once used an impact to spin them on. All were
>hand-spun tight and then hand torqued by me even at the wheel shops.
Take a look at what the shop manual for your car says about using
anti-sieze on the studs. GM specifically says that the torque value
on my car is with studs dry and not to use any lubricant. If you are
using a lubricant and still torqueing to factory specs, you are
probably stretching the studs beyond their spec value to produce the
clamping force required. This MAY result in stud failure, wheel
damage (especially alloy wheels), and/or brake disc warping.
Then Brian Garfield asked:
>If anyone has good knowledge of how to handle TWO speeding tickets a week
>apart, please let me know. At this point, I cannot just pay them, it would
>really screw me. I already know how stupid it is, so I don't need those
>comments. But I figured there would be some knowledge in this crowd.
>I'm in Maryland.
An attorney specializing in traffic offenses. Don't try to argue
this one yourself, hire someone who does it for a living.
Gene near Seattle
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