I don't know about your existing setup, but I know
about Datsun alternators. None of them have onboard
external regulators nor true one wire hookups, But:
'70 to '77 or so were external regulated, '78 on
were internaly regulated designs. I may be off a year
on that split. All interchange mechanically rather
well. The only true one wire designs I know of are GM
units which require special bracketry to mount and
seem to not last as long. The following is the early
Datsun color coding, some aftermarket regulators and
even later cars have variations in the color coding.
The externally regulated designs have 4 wires out of
the alternator plus two more from the regulator [6
total]. The Magic Decoder ring says:
E, ground [earth?], black wire [Datsuns love black
ground wires, they are everywhere];
F, field actuator, white and black wire, stem of T;
N, neutral reference, yellow wire, top of T connector;
A, or B, current supply post, large white and red
wire;
and at the regulator:
IG, switched power, usually white and blue wire;
L, discharge light power, usually white and red wire.
The E, F, and N wires are all directly connected
between the two inside the wiring harness.
The IR alternators have the same E and A [or B]
functions and locations, but change the same fitting
and looking two terminal T plug connector functions
plug in wires to S and T. Codes:
E, ground, black wires, very important to use these!
B, current supply line, heavy white/red wire;
S, switched power supply turns everything on and off,
top of the T connector;
L, discharge light, stem of the T connector.
The common street interchange is to take a dead
regulator, snip the connector, tie the yellow
alternator N to the white regulator A [turns the thing
on and off], then tie the white/black alternator F to
the white/red regulator L [gives you the discharge
light] and simply plug the modified connector in in
place of a n external regulator. Leave the black
grounds together. There are unused wires here.
Retrofit to an older style alternator is simply
reinstall a regulator. There are reports that the
whole thing may not work without a functioning
discharge light, I don't know if that is true or not.
It is all much easier than the description given
here sounds, really!
Some variation for a racer is likely.
The IR style alternators are 4 wires instead of 6,
and I suppose you could [maybe] leave out the
discharge light to reduce that to 3, and leave off the
ground [counting on chassis grounding] leaving 2, and
then you could leave the starting power on all the
time by hooking up the switched power to the charge
lead. I think that is how GM does it. I have it that
way on my Buick/Datsun/EM car, but I also have a
battery disconnect that I use all the time..
Some of my Datsun affliction:
'72 510 EPrep A/Xer
'70 510 EMod A/Xer
'71 240Z ITS RRacer
'69 510 GProd/BS Vintage RRacer
'69 510 streeter, >500,000 miles
'70 240Z EProd under construction
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Dennis Hale
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