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Re: Looking for advice on a CRX

To: <AutoX200@aol.com>, <Autox@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for advice on a CRX
From: "Eric Linnhoff" <eric10mm@qni.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 00:31:55 -0800
>    Question 1 is, I have an 87 Honda CRX DX.  I had to replace the motor
and
>it was from an 87 Civic.  The motor is the same displacement as the
original.
> I removed the A/C when installing the other motor. The compressor, hoses,
>and the mounting bracket that is on the engine block.  Is this legal for
>stock?
>
>    Question 2 is, What else could I do to the car to help improve
>performance and handling and stay in stock class?  Plus what class is the
CRX
>DX in?  ES?
=============================
I would refer you to my favorite online SCCA rule reference site.
http://www.best.com/~mouton/sccasolo/

My best guess to your first question is that as long as it's basically the
same motor as far as the displacement, # of cams & valves, HP & torque
figures, year or production and still meets all of the Stock class rules you
shold be okay.  At the bigger events I would simply adopt a don't ask/don't
tell policy.  As long as the motor is identical to the one that came out I
sure would consider any related protest to be highly weenie-ish.

A/C is removable as long as a "no A/C" option was available on your car.
But, if you got a larger radiator, heavier duty springs, stronger
alternator, etc as a result of ordering the A/C package you'd have to switch
to the non-A/C parts if you yank the compressor and related parts.

Similarly, you could legally "convert" your car to a Si as long as you
installed all of the Si parts instead of the DX parts.

>From all I've heard you should not put a large diameter aftermarket exhaust
on your CRX.  Apparently, contrary to most other manufacturers, doing so
absolutely kills your low end power.  But most other "standard" Stock Class
performance mods will work.  K&N filter, synthetic fluids, new plugs, wires,
coil(s) and cap/rotor, gutting the cat, gutting the alternator and just
running off of the battery, lightened flywheel, removing the top 2 gears in
the tranny, changing the final drive gears and removing every piece of
non-structurally essential hidden piece of metal that you can find.  Oh
wait.  Umm, forget about those last few items.  I must've been thinking out
loud.  ;^)

>    Question 3 is, What would be the better tire to get for autocrossing
for
>13" tires?
=============================
Ron Williams sure did alright with the 215/50-13 (front) and 185/60-13
(rear) BFG Comp T/A R1s on his 5" alloy wheels.  And they're still available
from the Tirerack.  It doesn't look any worse than when you ran the 225s on
the 200SX 5.5" wheels.

See you on course.

Eric Linnhoff in KC
#69DS    TLS #13
'98 Neon R/T
<eric10mm@qni.com>

Baby you can drive my car
Yes I'm gonna be a star
Baby you can drive my car
And baby I love you

Beep beep'm beep beep yeah
============================
"Drive my car" by The Beatles





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