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thanks for the brake inputs !!
ok...I'm convinced to go with the R4S all the way around......the next
question; is there any kind of breakin time needed prior to autocross? I
wouldn't replace them the morning of but need I be concerned about doing it
within several days of an event? Also, my rotors are already warped but it
doesn't give the pulsing unless I'm at highway speeds. Don't want to buy new
rotors so do I need to have the existing ones turned or if I can live with it
and since it's just gonna happen again.....ok to just throw the pads on and
go? I've heard one guy say he can get them turned (off car) for like $7 a
piece but when I asked A&H sometime back, they recommend turning them on the
car and wanted like $100......so that ain't gonna happen.
Jeff MacRae
97 GSR Sdn
on a related note.....thought about running some DOT 4 fluid as well....is it
an acceptable practice to do the Jeff Loyd approach by siphoning out the res.
then filling, cylce the brakes, repeat until you feel all old stuff has been
diluted and replaced? Does this method actually get the old fluid out at the
bottom of the lines? Or is a 4 wheel bleed needed to drain the entire system.
Not sure if mixing DOT3 and 4 is damaging to the system....wouldn't seem to
be though. Any easy upgrades is what I'm after I guess......no budget for
Koni's this season so striving for every little bit I can get.
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Return-path: PgrMstr@aol.com
From: PgrMstr@aol.com
Full-name: PgrMstr
Message-ID: <b8566464.247c4299@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:14:49 EDT
Subject: Re: [PhAX]- Jeff, the GSR brakes from the factory have a softer
compound
To:
IMCEACCMAIL-OXYCHEM+2EGRAND+20ISLAND+20TECHNOLOGY+3AKunze+20Dale+20at+20gicnov02@oxy.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 4
ok...I'm convinced to go with the R4S all the way around......the next
question; is there any kind of breakin time needed prior to autocross? I
wouldn't replace them the morning of but need I be concerned about doing it
within several days of an event? Also, my rotors are already warped but it
doesn't give the pulsing unless I'm at highway speeds. Don't want to buy new
rotors so do I need to have the existing ones turned or if I can live with it
and since it's just gonna happen again.....ok to just throw the pads on and
go? I've heard one guy say he can get them turned (off car) for like $7 a
piece but when I asked A&H sometime back, they recommend turning them on the
car and wanted like $100......so that ain't gonna happen.
jeff
on a related note.....thought about running some DOT 4 fluid as well....is it
an acceptable practice to do the Jeff Loyd approach by siphoning out the res.
then filling, cylce the brakes, repeat until you feel all old stuff has been
diluted and replaced? Does this method actually get the old fluid out at the
bottom of the lines? Or is a 4 wheel bleed needed to drain the entire system.
Not sure if mixing DOT3 and 4 is damaging to the system....wouldn't seem to
be though. Any easy upgrades is what I'm after I guess......no budget for
Koni's this season.
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