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Re: Help! Car hikes rear inner leg on corners.

To: autox@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Help! Car hikes rear inner leg on corners.
From: GSMnow@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 02:55:51 EDT
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 01:17:34 EDT
From: DUELRACER@aol.com

<< I am in need of assistance in a problem that I am experiencing with my H 
Stock 200SX.  The car is a 1982 model and rear wheel drive.  My problem is 
that when I go into a corner I am raising up the inner rear tire, thus losing 
traction and grip.  If I try to throttle out of the corner, all I get is the 
car jerking and shaking from trying to get traction. >>

Obviously no limited slip. Is it a solid axle or IRS?

<< What I have done to the car since last year is this.  I have replaced the 
sway bar bushings, put new coil springs in the front and back.  I have Koni's 
on front and back. The Koni's on the rear were a little shorter in stroke 
than the normal Monroe shocks that were on the car. >>

Does it ride higher with the new springs? Also you can check if the shocks 
are topping out with a bit of thread. Jack the car up so the tires just lift 
off the ground, then lower it about 1/4 inch. Tie a piece of thread from the 
top to the bottom of the shock, and take it for a drive around some tight 
corners. If the thread snapped, you are probably getting very close to the 
top of travel. If you compress the suspension fully, is there still room left 
in the shock travel? If so, you might be able to add shock spacers. I had to 
experiment when I lowered my 83 Celica. Stock shocks bottomed with the bump 
stops cut down, and the next shorter shock that fit greatly limited droop 
travel. I used the shorter shocks with a spacer on top so it bottomed at the 
end of the bump stop travel. I got almost an extra 2 inches of droop, but a 
soloid hit in a bad pot hole might bottom the valve in the shock.

<< My question is this.  Because the Koni's on back have a shorter stroke 
than 
the originals, could it be that when I go into a corner that the shock 
becomes fully extended and causes the wheel to lift off the ground.  I know 
that I have to take the bottom bolt off of the shock to get the rear solid 
axle to be able to move down enough for me to be able to move the coil 
spring.  I have contacted my supplier for Koni's and the ones that I have are 
all that is available.  >>

Any stock springs should still be under considerable tension with the shock 
connected. If they become slack at shock extension, they would unseat over 
pot holes. I know from experience with short stiff springs. 

<< Are Tokico's or KYB's just as good as the Koni's or better?  Does anyone 
know if I can get them for my car.  Adjustable are not something that I would 
need, since it would not be easy to reach for the rear's.  Could replacing 
the sway bar on the rear help?  Is that feasible to replace the rear sway bar 
in stock?  >>

I run Tokica adjustable strut cartriges in front, and Koni single adjust race 
shocks in back. They both work well, and I rarely change settings. The effect 
of different damping is quite subtle and only really effects initial turn in 
for a fraction of a second. I have not changed shock settings in many events. 
Come to think of it, I have not even changed tire pressures this year. I am 
working on how I drive the car, and it is working better than any car 
changes. Everyone should have a really good driver show them what the car can 
do. I moved up alot chasing my co-driver, and catching him I might add.

<< I run Hoosier 205/50/14 on the rear and Hoosier 225/55/14 on the front.  
The car turns great and has the power for the straights but when it comes 
down to the corners I loose all speed and grip because of the rear inner tire 
coming 
off the ground.  Thanks for any help and suggestions. >>

I find it strange that you went with a wider front tire, on a rear drive car. 
I run 225 50 14 all the way around, and they are wearing very even. My car is 
similar to yours in basic setup, but mine is very modified. I am close to the 
limits of the STU rules with coil over suspension using stiff spring, but I 
went back to stock sway bars. The big bars I ran last year made the car too 
nervous. 

In stock class you can't change any springs and the rear bar has to be stock 
for your year car. If there was a model without a rear bar, you might be able 
to delete it. I say might, because you have to be able to prove it could have 
been bought that way. For local events, I doubt any one would say anything. 
Try disconnecting the rear bar and see what it does. I feel the extra body 
lean may make it push more though. The independant front suspension has a bad 
habit of gaining positive camber as the car leans, so stiffer is better, 
meaning put the stiffer bar in front, the rules allow any front bar in stock. 

If you plan to stay in stock class, there is not alot you can do to reduce 
the tire lifting. Go to SP and add the stiff springs and sway bars. Of course 
that is a bit more money, as making a competitve SP car takes alot of good 
engineering. 

Gary M.

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