In a message dated 12/28/2001 10:50:38 PM, ellis838@concentric.net writes:
<< I would like to make this next engine leak as little oil as possible.
There was a thread on making an aluminum side cover which I am going to
try. Anyone have suggestions on the oil pan, those cork end gaskets are
a pain. I had the best luck on a set I installed with no sealer of any
kind. Used black sealer pretty much all over another set and the thing
leaks like a sieve. Is it just me or are these end gaskets too long,
should you stuff them in or trim them down to size. Will be using an
aluminum pan on this engine. On to the timing cover, would like to stay
with a stock type seal any suggestions. Looking through my pile of parts
I have at least two different types of covers as far as the round oil
slinger [?] thing goes, one has a rubber O ring and a lip it fits behind
the other one did not have the O ring [maybe it should have?] and there
is not a lip. The round slinger is slightly different on both. I think
the second one of these covers is from a 1969 GT block. Thanks for any
suggestions. Jim >>
Hi Jim,
Here's my 2p. I can hardly wait to be put through the blender.
I have built a number of Alpine engines over the last 20+ years.
Front Cover - Have you machine shop get a donor front cover from a SB Chevy
and cut out the flange for the pressed in rubber seal. Have them carefully
cut the Alpine cover to accept it and braise the puppy in. Next have them
install the seal. Lastly have them epoxy a sleeve over the back of your
engine's balancer. They will know how to solve all of the minutia.
Side Cover - You can get an excellent fit and seal with this procedure. As
with the pan gasket set up PATIENCE is the recipe for success. I take a soft
rubber mallet and a flat punch and slightly concave ALL of the bolt holes.
Simply place the cover on the edge of your work bench and working from the
back side 'drift' each opening with the punch and mallet. Don't get carried
away though. Next carefully clean both the back side of the cover and the
meeting surfaces of the block and head to remove any oil or assembly lube.
THIS is the killer of a good seal. I take a shop rag and spray it with a
small amount of brake cleaner and wipe these surfaces off. Next take your
finger and apply a small amount of sealant to the back of the cover and to
the two meeting surfaces. (I like the one that is BROWN. I forget the
Permatex # but I think it is #4. Someone will know, and someone will
disagree). Let it set to the point that it wants to skin. Just a minute or
two. If you rush this you'll regret it. You do NOT need a lot of sealant
either.
Push four bolts through the corners of the cover. Install the cork gasket
over the four bolts and gently lay it on the sealant. (I do wiggle the gasket
a slight amount.) Install the cover by catching just a thread or two of each
of the four bolts. Next install ALL of the bolts. I have bought gasket sets
from just about everybody but Curt (and he's next) and NO ONE has a perfect
punch set up on the Alpine gaskets. This is true for the paper pan gaskets as
well which I talk about next. You need to do it this way so that the cork get
stretched and pinch where it needs to. It do not OVER tighten these side
cover bolts. I do NOT use lock washers. I take my time and I don't seem to
have any problems with leaks around these covers. It's not as glamorous as a
"Customer, Hand Made, Polished Aluminum Cover" but it works.
Last but not least the pan gasket setup. I have used both the steel oil pans
and the aluminum ones. Here's my procedure.
1). Dry fit the end cork pieces. Remember the paper gaskets have tabs at each
end which protrude in under the cork pieces. Trim the cork IF NECESSARY to
get a Good Fit.
2). Put a dab of sealant at the end of each groove.
3). With your finger smear a light coating of sealant to the complete side
flanges of the block where the paper gasket will lie and the bolts go in.
4). Lay the paper gaskets down making sure the tabs are in the appropriate
groove ends. Try to align as many holes in the gasket with holes in the
flange. As stated above it won't be exact.
5). Smear a light coat of sealant on one side of the cork pieces and work
them into the grooves. REMOVE THEM !!! Let the sealant begin to form a skin.
When you place them back in the sealant will act as an adhesive to keep the
cork pieces in place.
6). Smear a light coat on all of the parts of the pan that will touch the
corresponding gasket/cork surfaces and let this begin to skin.
7). Taking four bolts and just catching a thread or two in each one, install
the pan taking care not to pinch the cork out. HERE IS WHERE PATIENCE WILL
PAY OFF! I walk away from the job at this point for about 5 minutes letting
the sealant cure gluing it to both side of the cork. When I come back I
install the rest of the pan bolts a thread or two and begin the process of
tightening them down in the classical criss cross pattern watching the cork
to make sure it doesn't pinch it self out. The rear piece is the one I watch
the closest.
These methods work for me.
ZAG
|