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Re: Spot welds

To: Louis & Laila <bwana@c2i2.com>
Subject: Re: Spot welds
From: Ron Tebo <tebomr@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 08:26:32 -0700
Lou:

As you mentioned, this is an expensive way to achieve originality, since
you would probably need many of the pictured accessories, and even then,
you wouldn't be able to duplicate many of the factory welds. (Most
manufacturers using resistance welding use their own specially designed
tongs to reach into certain areas). Also, unless done under conditions
that were ideal (clean, proper fit-up, excellent contact surfaces, etc.)
a resistance weld would be weaker than the fusion (spot) welds you are
presently making (something to consider in an Alpine where the sheet
metal contributes to the overall strength and stiffness of the frame).

Ron Tebo

Louis & Laila wrote:
> 
> Howdy all,
>      I am wondering if anyone has had experience with the Spot Welder that is
> sold by EASTWOOD. I would like to replace sheet metal without having it
> obvious that the fenders have ever been replaced. My current technique is to
> remove the spotwelds with a cutter, then MIG weld a small circle in the hole.
> This leaves a lump that can be ground down, though an experienced restorer can
> see that the fender was replaced. The Spot welder is rather expensive, at
> $459.00, plus you must buy a variety of tips and pay for shipping! If it was
> "worth it", then I might give it a shot. But I would rather not spend that
> kind of money if it isn't. Lou

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